Ready for a challenge? Let’s have some fun trying a bottom-up bias construction together with a colorwork mosaic pattern. The charted instructions, together with the written pattern will make an enjoyable and straightforward knit.
Time: 20-30 Hour Pattern
Skill Level: Advanced
Size: Finished Bust Size 33 (37, 41, 45, 49)” to fit bust size 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)”.
0-1“ positive ease recommended.
Shown in size 37”.
Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows = 4″ [10 cm] worked in St st after blocking
Materials
Yarn: Malabrigo Arroyo (100% Merino superwash; 335 yards [306 meters]/100 grams): #131 sand blank (MC, 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) skeins), #64 chispas (CC, 1 skein)
Needles: US sizes 6 (4.0 mm) and 7 (4.5 mm) circular needles.
Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch markers, waste yarn or stitch holder.
Downloads:
Abbreviations
SM – slip marker
Special Stitches
M1L – make one stitch left leaning: Insert left needle from front to back under the horizontal strand between the stitches on the two needles, knit this lifted strand through the back loop to twist the stitch to the left. (1 st increased)
M1R – make one stitch right leaning: Insert left needle from back to front under the horizontal strand between the stitches on the two needles, knit this lifted strand through the front loop to twist the stitch to the right. (1 st increased)
Pattern Notes
This fitted V-neck vest is worked in diagonal stripes with mosaic colorwork in the front, while leaving a monochrome texture in the back.
The garment is worked flat bottom-up in 2 similar pieces joint together at sides and shoulders. Then, collar, hem and armbands are finished in the round with a garter st ribbing.
Increases/decreases are worked on the RS of the piece.
Selvedge stitches (the first and last stitch of each row) are always purled.
I recommend to start with the back piece to get used to the bias technique first, and then work the front to focus on the mosaic pattern.
The mosaic colorwork is a 24-rows shadow pattern repetition in stockinette stitch. Each yarn/color is used for 2 entire rows (RS and WS) at a time, following the same color pattern; the yarn/color on hold is left at the right hand edge of the piece.
Charts are also provided for ease of following the written instructions.
In the chart, each horizontal row represents 2 rows of knitting, worked with the same strand of yarn. The RS row, beginning with an odd number at the right-hand edge of the chart, works from right to left. The WS row is shown by an even number at the left-hand edge of the chart on the same line, and is read left to right.
Working yarn/color is indicated as the color of the first stitch in the chart (MC or CC). You will knit (RS) or purl (WS) the stitches of this color and slip the ones of the other color.
Slip stitches are slipped purlwise, and the working yarn is always held to the wrong side of the work (RS: wyib =with yarn in back, and WS: wyif = with yarn in front).
I recommend to use a stretchy BO, like the Jeny’s surprisingly stretchy bind-off method, in particular for the hem.
Pattern
Back
Starting Triangle (make 2)
With MC and smaller needle, CO 3 sts.
Row 1 (RS): P1, k1, p1.
Row 2 (WS): P to end.
Row 3 (inc): P1, M1L, k to last st, M1R, p1. (2 sts increased)
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Rep Rows [3-4] 25 (30, 32, 35, 40) more times. (53, (63, 67, 73, 83) sts)
Cut yarn and place sts on hold.
Do not cut yarn at end of second triangle.
Join Triangles:
Place sts of both triangles with RS facing on one needle and yarn at right edge, ready to continue to work with a RS row.
Setup Row 1 (RS): P1, k to last st of first triangle, PM, k2tog (last st of first triangle and first st of second triangle), k to last st of the second triangle, p1. (105 (125, 133, 145, 165) sts)
Setup Row 2 (WS): P to end.
Row 1 (RS): P1, k to last 2 sts before marker, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k to last st, p1. (2 sts decreased)
Row 2 (WS): P to end.
Rows 3-16: Rep [Rows 1-2] 7 times. (89 (109, 117, 129, 149) sts rem)
Row 17: P1, M1L, k to last 2 sts before marker, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k to last st, M1R, p1.
Row 18: P to end.
Rep [Rows 17-18] 27 (29, 30, 31, 32) more times.
Cut yarn and place sts on hold.
Front
Work as for Back through Join Triangles Setup Row 2. (105 (125, 133, 145, 165) sts)
Follow the written instructions below and/or work off the charts.
Marker is placed before the center st. Center st is on front left chart.
The charts are shown for Size 33”.
For Sizes 37 (45, 49)”, use the same charts but add 1 (2, 3) more pattern repeat(s) across each chart.
For Size 41”, use the same charts and add an additional pattern repeat and add k4 after and before the selvedge sts (p1) or the increases (M1L, M1R).
Change to larger needle.
Row 1 (RS): With CC, p1, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), *sl2, [k1, sl1] 4 times; rep from * to last 11 sts before marker, sl2, [k1, sl1] 3 times, k1, ssk, SM, sl1 (center st), k2tog, k1, [sl1, k1] 3 times, sl2, **[sl1, k1] 4 times, k2; rep from ** to last 1 (1, 5, 1, 1) st(s), k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), p1. (103 (123, 131, 143, 163) sts rem)
Row 2 (WS) and all following WS rows: With the same color as previous row, p the knit sts of the previous row and sl wyif the same slipped sts of the other color.
Row 3: With MC, p1, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), *k4, sl1, k1, sl1, k3; rep from * to last 10 sts before marker, k4, [sl1, k1] 2 times, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, [k1, sl1] 2 times, k4, **k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k4; rep from ** to last 1 (1, 5, 1, 1) st(s), k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), p1. (101 (121, 129, 141, 161) sts rem)
Row 5: With CC, p1, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), *k1, sl1, k7, sl1; rep from * to last 9 sts before marker, k1, sl1, k5, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, k5, sl1, k1, **sl1, k7, sl1, k1; rep from ** to last 1 (1, 5, 1, 1) st(s), k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), p1. (99 (119, 127, 139, 159) sts rem)
Row 7: With MC, p1, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), *k4, sl1, k1, sl1, k3; rep from * to last 8 sts before marker, k4, sl1, k1, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k1, sl1, k4, **k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k4; rep from ** to last 1 (1, 5, 1, 1) st(s), k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), p1. (97, (117, 125, 137, 157) sts rem)
Row 9: With CC, p1, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), *k1, sl1, k7, sl1; rep from * to last 7 sts before marker, k1, sl1, k3, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, **sl1, k7, sl1, k1; rep from ** to last 1 (1, 5, 1, 1) st(s), k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), p1. (95 (115, 123, 135, 155) sts rem)
Row 11: With MC, p1, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), *[sl1, k1] 2 times, sl3, k1, sl1, k1; rep from * to last 6 sts before marker, [sl1, k1] 2 times, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, [k1, sl1] 2 times, **k1, sl1, k1, sl3, [k1, sl1] 2 times; rep from ** to last 1 (1, 5, 1, 1) st(s), k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), p1. (93 (113, 121, 133, 153) sts rem)
Row 13: With CC, p1, k to last 2 sts before marker, ssk, SM, sl1, ssk, k to last st, p1. (91 (111, 119, 131, 151) sts rem)
Row 15: With MC, p1, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), *sl2, [k1, sl1] 4 times; rep from * to last 4 sts before marker, sl2, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, sl2, **[sl1, k1] 4 times, sl2; rep from ** to last 1 (1, 5, 1, 1) st(s), k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), p1. (89 (109, 117, 129, 149) sts rem)
Row 17: With CC, p1, ML, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), *k4, sl1, k1, sl1, k3; rep from * to last 3 sts before marker, k1, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, k1, **k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k4; rep from ** to last 1 (1, 5, 1, 1) st(s), k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), MR, p1.
Row 19: With MC, p1, ML, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), sl1, *k1, sl1, k7, sk1; rep from * to last 2 sts before marker, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, **sl1, k7, sl1, k1; rep from ** to last 2 (2, 6, 2, 2) sts, sl1, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), MR, p1.
Row 21: With CC, p1, ML, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), sl1, k1, *[sl1, k1] 2 times, sl3, k1, sl1, k1; rep from * to last 11 sts before marker, [sl1, k1] 2 times, sl3, k1, sl1, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, sl1, k1, sl3, [k1, sl1] 2 times, **k1, sl1, k1, sl3, [k1, sl1] 2 times; rep from ** to last 3 (3, 7, 3, 3) sts, k1, sl1, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), MR, p1.
Row 23: With MC, p1, ML, k to last 2 sts before marker, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k to last st MR, p1.
Row 25: With CC, p1, ML, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), [k1, sl1] 2 times, *sl2, [k1, sl1] 4 times; rep from * to last 9 sts before marker, sl2, [k1, sl1] 2 times, k1, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, [k1, sl1] 3 times, sl1, **[sl1, k1] 4 times, sl2; rep from ** to last 5 (5, 9, 5, 5) sts, [sl1, k1] 2 times, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), MR, p1.
Row 27: With MC, p1, ML, k1 (1, 5, 1, 1), sl1, k3, *k4, sl1, k1, sl1, k3; rep from * to last 8 sts before marker, k4, sl1, k1, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k1, sl1, k4, **k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k4; rep from ** to last 6 (6, 10, 6, 6) sts, k3, sl1, k1 (1, 5, 1, 1), MR, p1.
Row 29: With CC, p1, ML, k5 (5, 9, 5, 5), sl1, *k1, sl1, k7, sl1; rep from * to last 7 sts before marker, k1, sl1, k3, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, k3, sl1, k1, **sl1, k7, sl1, k1; rep from ** to last 7 (7, 11, 7, 7) sts, sl1, k5 (5, 9, 5, 5), MR, p1.
Row 31: With MC, p1, ML, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), [k1, sl1] 2 times, k3, *k4, [ sl1, k1] 2 times, k2; rep from * to last 6 sts before marker, k4, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k4, **k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k4; rep from ** to last 8 (8, 12, 8, 8) sts, k3, sl1, k1, sk1, k1 (1, 5, 1, 1), MR, p1.
Row 33: With CC, p1, ML, k7 (7, 11, 7, 7), sl1, *k1, sl1, k7, sl1; rep from * to last 5 sts before marker, k1, sl1, k1, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, k1, sl1, k1, **sl1, k7, sl1, k1; rep from ** to last 9 (9, 13, 9, 9) sts, sl1, k7 (7, 11, 7, 7), MR, p1.
Row 35: With MC, p1, ML, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), [k1, sl1] 2 times, sl2, k1, sl1, k1, *[sl1, k1] 2 times, sl3, k1, sl1, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts before marker, sl1, k1, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k1, sl1, **k1, sl1, k1, sl3, [k1, sl1] 2 times; rep from ** to last 10 (10, 14, 10, 10) sts, k1, sl1, k1, sl3, k1, sl1, k1 (1, 5, 1, 1), MR, p1.
Row 37: With CC, p1, ML, k to last 2 sts before marker, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, k to last st, MR, p1.
Row 39: With MC, p1, ML, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), sl1, *sl2, [k1, sl1] 4 times; rep from * to last 2 sts before marker, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, **[sl1, k1] 4 times, sl2; rep from ** to last 2 (2, 6, 2, 2) sts, sl1, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), MR, p1.
Row 41: With CC, p1, ML, k2 (2, 6, 2, 2), *k4, sl1, k1, sl1, k3; rep from * to last 11 sts before marker, k4, [sl1, k1] 2 times, k1, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, k2, sl1, k1, sl1, k4, **k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k4; rep from ** to last 3 (3, 7, 3, 3) sts, k2 (2, 6, 2, 2), MR, p1.
Row 43: With MC, p1, ML, k2 (2, 6, 2, 2), sl1, *k1, sl1, k7, sl1; rep from * to last 10 sts before marker, k1, sl1, k6, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k6, sl1, k1, **sl1, k7, sl1, k1; rep from ** to last 4 (4, 8, 4, 4) sts, sl1, k2 (2, 6, 2, 2), MR, p1.
Row 45: With CC, p1, ML, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), [sl1, k1] 2 times, *[sl1, k1] 2 times, sl3, k1, sl1, k1; rep from * to last 9 sts before marker, [sl1, k1] 2 times, sl3, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, sl3,[ k1, sl1] 2 times, **[k1, sl1] 2 times, sl2, [k1, sl1] 2 times; rep from ** to last 5 (5, 9, 5, 5) sts, [k1, sl1] 2 times, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), MR, p1.
Row 47: With MC, p1, ML, k to last 2 sts before marker, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k to last st, MR, p1.
Row 49: With CC, p1, ML, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), [k1, sl1] 3 times, *sl2, [k1, sl1] 4 times; rep from * to last 7 sts before marker, sl2, k1, sl1, k1, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, [k1, sl1] 2 times, sl1, **[sl1,k1] 4 times, sl2; rep from ** to last 7 (7, 11, 7, 7) sts, [sl1, k1] 3 times, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), MR, p1.
Row 51: With MC, p1, ML, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), [k1, sl1] 2 times, k3, *k4, sl1, k1, sl1, k3; rep from * to last 6 sts before marker, k4, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k4, **k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k4; rep from ** to last 8 (8, 12, 8, 8) sts, k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k1 (1, 5, 1, 1), MR, p1.
Row 53: With CC, p1, ML, k7 (7, 11, 7, 7), sl1, *k1, sl1, k7, sl1; rep from * to last 5 sts before marker, k1, sl1, k1, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, k1, sl1, k1, **sl1, k7, sl1, k1; rep from ** to last 9 (9, 13, 9, 9) sts, sl1, k7 (7, 11, 7, 7), MR, p1.
Row 55: With MC, p1, ML, k2 (2, 6, 2, 2), [k1, sl1] 2 times, k3, *k4, [sl1, k1] 2 times, k2; rep from * to last 4 sts before marker, k2, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k2, **k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k4; rep from ** to last 10 (10, 14, 10, 10) sts, k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k3 (3, 7, 3, 3), MR, p1.
Row 57: With CC, p1, ML, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), *k1, sl1, k7, sl1; rep from * to last 3 sts before marker, k1, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, k1, **sl1, k7, sl1, k1; rep from ** to last 11 (11, 15, 11, 112) sts, sl1, k7, sl1, k1 (1, 5, 1, 1), MR, p1.
Row 59: With MC, p1, ML, k1 (1, 5, 1, 1), *[sl1, k1] 2 times, sl3, k1, sl1, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts before marker, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, **k1, sl1, k1, sl3, [k1, sl1] 2 times; rep from ** to last 2 (2, 6, 2, 2) sts, k1 (1, 5, 1, 1), MR, p1.
Row 61: With CC, p1, ML, k to last 2 sts before marker, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, k to last st, MR, p1.
Row 63: With MC, p1, ML, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), sl1, k1, sl1, *sl2, [k1, sl1] 4 times; rep from * to last 10 sts before marker, sl2, [k1, sl1] 3 times, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, [sl1, k1] 3 times, sl2, **[sl1, k1] 4 times, sl2; rep from ** to last 4 (4, 8, 4, 4) sts, sl1, k1, sl1, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), MR, p1.
Row 65: With CC, p1, ML, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), sl1, k3, *k4, sl1, k1, sl1, k3; rep from * to last 9 sts before marker, k4, sl1, k1, sl1, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, sl1, k1, sl1, k4, **k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k4; rep from ** to last 5 (5, 9, 5, 5) sts, k3, sl1, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), MR, p1.
Row 67: With MC, p1, ML, k4 (4, 8, 4, 4), sl1, *k1, sl1, k7, sl1; rep from * to last 8 sts before marker, k1, sl1, k4, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k4, sl1, k1, **sl1, k7, sl1, k1; rep from ** to last 6 (6, 10, 6, 6) sts, sl1, k4 (4, 8, 4, 4), MR, p1.
Row 69: With CC, p1, ML, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), sl3, k1, sl1, k1, *[sl1, k1] 2 times, sl3, k1, sl1, k1; rep from * to last 7 sts before marker, [sl1, k1] 2 times, sl1, ssk, SM, sl1, k2tog, [sl1 k1] 2 times, sl1, **[k1, sl1] 2 times, sl2, [k1, sl1] 2 times; rep from ** to last 7 (7, 11, 7, 7) sts, [k1, sl1] 2 times, sl2, k0 (0, 4, 0, 0), MR, p1.
Change to smaller needle.
Row 71: With MC, p1, ML, k to last 2 sts before marker, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k to last st, MR, p1.
Row 72: P to end.
Rep Rows [71-72] 0 (2, 3, 4, 5) more times, continuing to work center st alternating as sl1 or k1. Do not cut yarn at end.
Finishing
Neckline
With RS facing, place held 89 (109, 117, 129, 149) back sts on same (smaller) needle as front sts, keeping the marker in front of each center sts in place, place a marker for the beg of the rnd. (178 (218, 234, 258, 298) sts)
Beg working in the round.
Rnd 1 (RS): K to last 2 sts before marker, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k to last 2 sts before marker, ssk, SM, k1, k2tog, k to end. (4 sts decreased)
Rnd 2 (RS): P to last 2 sts before marker, p2tog, SM, k1, p2tog, p to last 2 sts before marker, p2tog, SM, k1, p2tog, p to end. (4 sts decreased)
Rep [Rnds 1-2] 3 (3, 4, 5, 5) more times. (146 (186, 194, 210, 250) sts rem)
With CC, BO kwise loosely.
Hem
With RS facing, match up edges of Starting Triangles and seam sides with MC and mattress st.
Setup Rnd: With RS facing, MC and smaller needle, pick up and knit 133 (158, 168, 183, 208) sts around the bottom edge, PM for beg of rnd.
Rnd 1: K to around.
Rnd 2: P to around.
Rep [Rnds 1-2] 3 (3, 4, 5, 5) more times.
With CC, BO kwise loosely.
Armhole Edging
With RS facing, MC and smaller needle, beg at underarm, pick up and knit 100 (105, 110, 115, 120) sts, PM for beg of rnd
Complete as for Hem.
Weave in ends, block.