The Sienna Tank is one of those everyday garments that you can easily throw on and be comfy in, yet still stylish enough to embellish any outfit with a sophisticated and simple flair. The I-cord edgings at the arm openings, hem and cowl neck add a touch of sophistication, while the A-line shaping makes it incredibly flattering.
Time: 2 Week Project
Skill Level: Intermediate
Size: Finished Bust Size 78 (86.5, 99, 101, 118) (128.5, 137, 147.5, 158) cm / 30.75 (34, 39, 39.75, 46.5) (50.5, 54, 58, 62.25)” to fit bust 73.5 (83.5, 94, 104, 114) (124.5, 134.5, 144.5, 154.5) cm / 29 (33, 37, 41, 45) (49, 53, 37, 61)”.
0 – 5 cm / 0 – 2” negative ease recommended.
Shown in size 4 (101 cm / 39.75”)
Gauge: 19 sts and 24 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st with smaller needle after steam blocking
Materials
Yarn: Rowan Creative Linen (50% linen, 50% cotton; 219 yards [200 meters]/100 grams): #651 Pumpkin (3 (3, 3, 4, 4) (5, 5, 5, 6) balls)
Needles: US size 8 (5.0 mm) 16” and 24” circular needles and two 5.5 mm dpns for I-cord bind off.
Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, waste yarn or stitch holders
Abbreviations
LHN – left hand needle
RHN – right hand needle
BOR – beginning of round
Special Stitches
M1R: Make 1 st leaning to the right
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from back to front. Leave the strand on the left needle. Next, insert the tip of the right needle knitwise into the front leg of the strand and knit as usual.
M1L: Make 1 st leaning to the left
pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back. Next, insert the tip of the right needle knitwise into the back leg of the strand and knit as usual.
Mds: Make double stitch
A double stitch is made when working German Short rows.
To make double stitches: On the RS, work until indicated, turn work. Slip 1 st from LHN to the RHN purlwise with yarn in front. Pull the yarn tightly to the back of the work OVER the TOP of the RHN. This will distort the stitch, making it look as if there are 2 stitches instead of 1. This is called making a double st (mds). Bring the yarn to the front BETWEEN the needles to begin purling. Work until indicated, turn work so the right side is facing. Bring yarn to the front BETWEEN the needles, slip 1 st from LHN to RHN purlwise with yarn in front. Pull yarn tightly to the back of the work OVER top of RHN. This will create another double stitch (mds).
To resolve double stitches: Work to doubled stitch, then work the doubled stitch as if it were one (like a knit 2 together on the RS and a purl 2 together on the WS).
Applied 3-st I-cord
Use a provisional cast-on to CO 3 sts onto dpn, do not turn needle, instead slide sts to right end, yarn is coming off the far left st.
*K2, sl1 kwise, pick up and knit 1 st, psso, slide the sts back to right end of dpn, rep from * until you are back around at the CO. Graft the 2 ends together with Kitchener st.
Pattern Notes
The tank is worked top-down starting with the back. Once the back is worked in flat rows, the front is worked with slight shaping around the neckline. Bot panels increase at the sides to allow for underarm shaping and a subtle I-cord edging is worked at the armhole openings. With both panels finished, they are joined at the underarm, and the chest and rest of the body is worked in rounds. A-line shaping is achieved by increasing in four different places around the body (two at the front and two at the back). Once all increases are done, extra length is added to the bottom. Then, short rows are worked at the back to add length and create a rounded hemline. After that, the hem is closed off using an I-cord bind off. Later, stitches are picked up around the neckline to work the cowl. Increases are used to shape the cowl at the front and it is finished with an I-cord bind off.
PATTERN
Back
With smaller needle, CO 50 (52, 56, 58, 60) (66, 72, 78, 82).
Row 1 (RS): Wyib, sl2, k2, pm, k to last 4 sts, pm, k4, turn. (50 (52, 56, 58, 60) (66, 72, 78, 82) sts)
Row 2 (WS): Wyif, sl2, p1, k1, sl marker, p to marker, sl marker, k1, p3, turn.
Cont to slip markers as you come to them.
Rep Rows 1-2 until work measures 13.5 (12, 9.5, 10.5, 5.5) (4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5) cm / 5.5 (4.75, 3.75, 4, 2) (1.75, 1.75, 1.75, 1.75)”, finishing with a WS row.
Underarm Shaping
Row 1 (RS): Wyib, sl2, k2, sl marker, M1R, k to last 4 sts, M1L, sl marker, k4, turn. (52 (54, 58, 60, 62) (68, 74, 80, 84) sts; 2 sts increased)
Row 2 (WS): Wyif, sl2, p1, k1, sl marker, p to marker, sl marker, k1, p3, turn.
Rep Rows 1-2 another 10 (13, 17, 17, 24) (26, 27, 28, 29) more times for a total of 22 (28, 36, 36, 50) (54, 56, 58, 60) sts increased. (72 (80, 92, 94, 110) (120, 128, 136, 142) sts)
Cut yarn and place sts on a holder or waste yarn.
Front
Left Side
With smaller needle, CO 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) (9, 11, 14, 15).
Row 1 (RS): K to last 4 sts, pm, k4 turn. (5 (5, 6, 6, 7) (9, 11, 14, 15) sts)
Row 2: Wyif, sl2, p1, k1, sl marker, p to end of row, turn.
Row 3: K1, M1L, k to marker, sl marker, k4, turn. (6 (6, 7, 7, 8) (10, 12, 15, 16) sts; 1 st increased)
Row 4: Wyif, sl2, p1, k1, sl marker, p to end of row, turn.
Rep Rows 3-4 another 3 times. (9 (9, 10, 10, 11) (13, 15, 18, 19) sts)
Cut yarn and place sts on a holder or waste yarn.
Right Side
With smaller needle, CO 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) (9, 11, 14, 15).
Row 1 (RS): Wyib, sl2, k2, pm, k to end of row, turn. (5 (5, 6, 6, 7) (9, 11, 14, 15) sts)
Row 2: P to marker, sl marker, k1, p3, turn.
Row 3: Wyib, sl2, k2, sl marker, k to last st, M1R, k1, turn. (6 (6, 7, 7, 8) (10, 12, 15, 16) sts; 1 st increased)
Row 4: P to marker, sl marker, k1, p3, turn.
Rep Rows 3-4 another 3 times. (9 (9, 10, 10, 11) (13, 15, 18, 19) sts)
Joining Fronts
With RS facing and starting at Right Side, wyib, sl2, k2, sl marker, k to end of row, CO 32 (34, 36, 38, 38) (40, 42, 42, 44) sts, move Left Side sts onto LHN to work on the RS and cont working on Left Side sts, k to last 4 sts, sl marker, k4 turn. (50 (52, 56, 58, 60) (66, 72, 78, 82) sts)
Next WS Row: Wyif, sl2, p1, k1, sl marker, p to marker, sl marker, k1, p3, turn.
Next RS row: Wyib, sl2, k2, pm, k to 4 sts from end of row, pm, k4, turn.
Rep last 2 rows until work measures 13.5 (12, 9.5, 10.5, 5.5) (4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5) cm / 5.5 (4.75, 3.75, 4, 2) (1.75, 1.75, 1.75, 1.75)”, finishing with a WS row.
Underarm Shaping
Work as for Underarm Shaping of the Back. Do not cut yarn. (72 (80, 92, 94, 110) (120, 128, 136, 142) sts)
Joining of Back and Front
With RS facing and smaller needle, starting with the Front sts, k to end of row, CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (1, 1, 2, 4) for first half of underarm, pm, CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (1, 1, 2, 4) for second half of underarm, place Back sts back onto LHN to work on them next, k to end of row, CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (1, 1, 2, 4) for first half of underarm, pm for beg of rnd, CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (1, 1, 2, 4) for second half of underarm. (148 (164, 188, 192, 224) (244, 260, 280, 300) sts)
Begin working in rounds. Markers show where the body splits in half. The last marker also marks BOR.
Body
Work in St st until work measures 6.5 (6, 6.5, 6, 5.5) (5.5, 5.5, 5, 5) cm / 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.25) (2, 2.25, 2, 2)” from underarms.
Hip Increases
On next row, place markers as follows: *k19 (20, 23, 24, 28) (30, 32, 35, 37), pm1, k36 (42, 48, 48, 56) (62, 66, 70, 76), pm2, k19 (20, 23, 24, 28) (30, 32, 35, 37), sl side marker, rep from * sliding BOR marker at the end.
Markers at the front and back show where increases will be made.
**Inc Rnd: *K to next marker, M1R, sl marker, k to next marker, sl marker, M1L, k to side marker, rep from * to BOR. (150 (168, 192, 196, 228) (248, 264, 284, 304) sts; 4 sts increased)
Work 4 (6, 7, 4, 7) (6, 7, 9, 8) rnds in St st.
Rep from ** another 8 (6, 5, 9, 7) (8, 7, 5, 6) times for a total of 9 (7, 6, 10, 8) (9, 8, 6, 7) Inc rows. (184 (192, 212, 232, 256) (280, 292, 304, 328) sts)
When all increases are finished, work even for 2.5 cm / 1” of St st or until desired length at front before moving on to Short-Rows. Remove all markers except side and BOR markers.
Short-Rows
Short-rows are used to add length to the back and to create a rounded hemline.
Row 1: K18 (18, 21, 21, 24) (21, 21, 21, 24), turn and mds.
Row 2: P to side marker, p18 (18, 21, 21, 24) (21, 21, 21, 24), turn and mds.
Row 3: K to 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) (7, 7, 7, 8) sts from end of last row (that is 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) (6, 6, 6, 7) sts and the double sts previously made), turn and mds.
Row 4: P to 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) (7, 7, 7, 8) sts from end of last row, turn and mds.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 another 8 (8, 8, 8, 8) (10, 10, 10, 10) times.
There should be a total of 10 (10, 10, 10, 10) (12, 12, 12, 12) double sts at each side of the back.
Next 2 Rows (RS): K around resolving all double stitches by knitting them together as if they were one. (184 (192, 212, 232, 256) (280, 292, 304, 328) sts)
BO using an I-cord BO as follows:
At end of last row, change to larger RHN and CO 3 sts onto it.
*Sl 3 sts to LHN, wyib, pull tightly, k2, sl1 kwise, k1, psso, rep from * until there are no longer any body sts left.
Cut yarn and graft the last 3 sts on your RHN with the first 3 sts of the I-cord BO using a tapestry needle.
Assembly
Using Mattress St, join together the Front and Back at the shoulders.
Cowl Neck
With smaller needle, starting at the left shoulder seam and working around the front first, pick up and k around the neckline, place BOR marker. (about 88 (92, 96, 100, 100) (104, 108, 108, 112) sts – total number of sts is not so important, as long as your fabric isn’t scrunched up)
Find the middle of the front and count 8 sts to each side of the middle.
Rnd 1: K to 8 sts from middle of front, pm, k to 8 sts after middle of front, pm, k to BOR.
*Inc Rnd: K to marker, sl marker, M1R, k to marker, M1L, sl marker, k to BOR. (2 sts increased)
Work 2 rnds of St st.
Rep from * 7 more times. (14 more sts increased)
Cont working even in St st until cowl measures 10 cm /4”.
Work an I-cord BO as you did on the hem.
Finishing
Armhole Edging
Work an Attached 3-st I-cord around each armhole and graft ends together.
Weave in ends, block.