Step up your skills by adding embroidery techniques to your knitting. This oversized, cozy floral sweater combines the elegance of a saddle shoulder design with the accent of scattered flowers along the sleeves. Experiment with different yarn fibers, weights and colors to create unique textures and contrasts in your flower designs.
Time: 20-30 hour pattern.
Skill Level: Intermediate.
Sizes written as XS (S, M, L, XL): Finished Bust Size 44 (48, 50, 54, 58)” to fit bust 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)”
10-12” positive ease recommended.
Shown in size 40”.
Gauge: 19 sts and 22 rows = 4” [10 cm] in stockinette st after wet blocking.
Materials
Yarn: Malabrigo Mechita (100% merino; 420 yards [384 meters]/ 3.6 ounces [100 grams]: 340 Alice (MC, 2 (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins).
Malabrigo Mohair (72% Mohair, 28% silk; 229 yards [210 meters]/ 0.9 ounces [25 grams]: 866 Arcoiris (CC 4 (5, 5, 6, 7) skeins).
Needles: US size 7 / 4.5 mm, and US size 8 / 5 mm circular needles.
Notions: Tapestry needle, removable markers, stitch holders, waste yarn for provisional cast-on, waste yarn/stitch holder.
Few yards of contrast yarn to embroider the flowers (In the sample I have used Scheepjes Catona in colors 408, 410, 520, and 395).
Abbreviations
DS: Double-Stitch (short-row)
KDS: knit DS
Kfb: Knit front and back (in the same st)
LN: Left Needle
LSB: Left Shoulder Band
PDS: purl DS
Rm: Remove marker
RN: Right Needle
RSB: Right Shoulder Band
Sm: slip marker
Special Stitches
Provisional Cast-On:
Using waste yarn, create a crochet chain with few stitches more than the number of stitches you wish to cast on. Break yarn and knot the end. Turn crochet chain to the wrong side (the side with bumps on it). Using the yarn intended for your knitting project, insert a knitting needle into the first bump of your crochet chain, wrap your yarn, and draw up a stitch. Continue to cast on a stitch into each bump of your crochet chain until you have cast on the appropriate number of stitches. When you need to access your cast on stitches, carefully un-knot the end of your crochet chain and “unzip” the entire cast on.
Double Stitches short row (=German short row) (DS)
After the turn, slip the first stitch with yarn in front. Then take yarn to the back of work. This makes two loops (Double Stitch) from the pulled, slipped stitch.
If the next stitch is a knit stitch, knit the stitch as you normally would.
If the next stitch is a purl stitch, bring the yarn back (the yarn will have gone around the needle from behind and back in front) and purl the next stitch.
When you find this DS in a subsequent row, knit (KDS) or purl (PDS) as if it was one (like a k2tog or p2tog).
Standard i-cord bind-off
CO 3 additional sts on left needle, * k2, k2tog tbl, return the 3 sts back onto left needle; rep from * until all sts are BO. Break yarn and graft the remaining 3 i-cord sts to the first i-cord sts of the rnd.
Modified i-cord bind-off (for sleeves only)
CO 3 additional sts on left needle, * k2, k2tog tbl, return the 3 sts back onto left needle, k2, k3tog tbl, return the 3 sts back onto left needle; rep from * until all sts are BO. Break yarn and graft the remaining 3 i-cord sts to the first i-cord sts of the rnd.
Pattern Notes
This design is seamless, worked top-down, and beginning with the collar knitted in the round. Next, shoulder bands are worked flat, while back and front neck pieces are set aside. Stitches are then picked-up along the edges of shoulder bands and worked flat together with the neck. Both back and front pieces are shaped using short rows. Yoke is raglan-shaped worked in the round and forming a large armscye. Finally, body and sleeves are separated, continuing in the round, and ended with an i-cord (body) or a modified i-cord (sleeves).
The piece is worked mainly in stockinette st together with a decorative ribbing in collar, hem, wrists, and along the sleeves, framing the embroidered scattered flowers.
The pattern is worked with MC and CC1 yarns held together while knitting.
Pattern
Collar
With US size 7/4.5 mm needles, and both yarns held together, provisional CO 76 (79, 85, 88, 94) sts. Sl first CO st from LH needle to RH needle, pass the last CO st over slipped st. pm and join to work in the round, being careful to do not twist the stitches. (75 (78, 84, 87, 93) sts)
Rnd 1: *P2, yo, k1, yo; rep from * around.
Rnd 2: *P2, k3; rep from * around.
Rnd 3: As Rnd 2.
Rnd 4: *P2, k3tog; rep from * around.
Repeat Rnds [1-4] another 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) more times.
Slip the next 19 (19, 22, 22, 22) sts onto the RN. These sts will be worked for the left shoulder band (LSB).
Place the following sts onto 3 separate waste yarn/stitch holders:17 (20, 20, 20, 23) st for the back neck; 19 (19, 22, 22, 22) sts for the right shoulder band (RSB), 20 (20, 20, 23, 26) sts for the front neck.
Shoulder Bands
With US size 8/ 5mm needles.
Left shoulder Band (LSB)
Place LSB sts onto LN.(19 (19, 22, 22, 22) sts)
Row 1 (RS): Kbf, p2, yo, k1, yo, p2, Pm, k1, [kbf, kbf, k1] 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) times, Pm, p2, yo, k1, yo, p2, kbf. 29 (29, 34, 34, 34) sts.
Row 2 (WS): P2, k2, p3, k2, sm, p to m, sm, k2, p3, k2, p2.
Row 3: K2, p2, k3, p2, sm, k to m, sm, p2, k3, p2, k2.
Row 4: P2, k2, p3tog, k2, sm, p to m, sm, k2, p3tog, k2, p2. (25 (25, 30, 30, 30) sts)
Row 5: K2, p2, yo, k1, yo, sm, k to m, sm, p2, yo, k1, yo, p2, k2. (29 (29, 34, 34, 34) sts)
Row 6: As Row 2
Row 7: As Row 3
Row 8: As Row 4
Repeat Rows [5-8] another 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) more times.
Place LSB sts on waste yarn/stitch holder.
Right shoulder Band (RSB)
With RS facing, place 19 (19, 22, 22, 22) sts from RSB onto LN.
Work as in LSB.
Back Neck Shaping
Set-up Row (RS): With RS facing, pick-up and knit 15 (15, 15, 18, 18) along the edge of LSB, Pm, place back neck sts onto LN; k1, *kbf, kbf, k1; rep from * to end, Pm; pick-up and knit 15 (15, 15, 18, 18) along the edge of RSB. (59 (64, 64, 70, 75) sts)
Short Row 1 (WS): P to m, sm, p to m, sm, p3, turn.
Short Row 2 (RS): DS, k2, sm, k to m, sm, k3, turn.
Short Row 3: DS, [p to m, sm] 2 times, p to DS, PDS, p3, turn.
Short Row 4: DS, [k to m, sm] 2 times, k to DS, KDS, k3, turn.
Rep Short rows 3-4 another 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) more times.
Row 1 (WS): DS, [p to m, rm] 2 times, p to DS, PDS, p to end, turn
Place sts onto waste yarn/stitch holder.
Front Neck Shaping
Set-up row (RS): With RS facing, pick-up and knit 15 (15, 15, 18, 18) sts along the edge of the RSB, Pm, place front neck sts onto LN; kbf, kbf, [k1, kbf, kbf] to end, Pm; pick-up and knit 15 (15, 15, 18, 18) sts along the edge of LSB. 64 (64, 64, 75, 80) sts
Left shaping
Short Row 1 (WS): P to m, sm, p3, turn.
Short Row 2 (RS): DS, k to m, sm, k3, turn.
Short Row 3: DS, p to m, sm, p to DS, KDS, p3, turn.
Short Row 4: DS, k to m, sm, k to DS, KDS, k3, turn.
Rep Short rows [3-4] another 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) more times.
Row 1 (WS): DS, p to m, Rm, p to DS, PDS, p to end.
Right shaping
Short Row 1 (RS): K to m, sm, k3, turn.
Short Row 2 (WS): DS, p2, sm, p3, turn.
Short Row 3: DS, k to m, sm, k to DS, KDS, k3, turn.
Short Row 4: DS, p to m, sm, p to DS, PDS, p3, turn.
Short Row 5: As Short Row 3.
Rep Short rows [4-5] another 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) more times,
Row 1 (WS): DS, p to m, Rm, p to DS, KDS, p to end, Pm (Beg of Rnd); turn.
Yoke (Body and Sleeve increases)
Part 1:
In this part, increases (8 sts/rnd) are made every other rnd.
Markers are placed in each raglan increase (4, one of them also as Beg of Rnd marker) and before each sleeve decorative ribbing (4).
Rnd 1 (RS): *K to end of front neck (working through both legs of the remaining double stitches if needed), Pm, place LSB sts onto LN, K2, Pm, p2, yo, k1, yo, k to m, p2, yo, k1, yo, p2, k2, Pm; place back neck sts onto LN, k to end (working through both legs of the remaining double stitches if needed), Pm; place RSB sts onto LN, K2, Pm, p2, yo, k1, yo, k to m, p2, yo, k1, yo, p2, k2; (173 (178, 188, 205, 215) sts)
Rnd 2: *K to 1 st before m, kfb, sm, kfb, k to m, sm, p2, k3, p2, k to m, sm, p2, k3, p2, k to 1 st before m, kbf, sm, kbf; rep from * once.
Rnd 3: *K to 1 st before m, sm, k to m, p2, k3, p2, k to m, p2, k3, p2, k to 1 st before m, sm; rep from * once.
Rnd 4: *K to 1 st before m, kfb, sm, kfb, k to m, p2, k3tog, p2, k to m, p2, k3, p2, k to 1 st before m, kbf, sm, kbf; rep from * once.
Rnd 5: *K to 1 st before m, sm, k to m, p2, yo, k1, yo, p2, k to m, p2, k3, p2, k to 1 st before m, kbf, sm, kbf; rep from * once.
Rnd 6: As Row 2
Rnd 7: As Row 3
Rnd 8: As Row 4
Repeat Rnds [5-8] another 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) more times. (269 (274, 300, 317, 343) sts)
Part 2:
In this part, increases (8 sts/rnd) are made every rnd.
Rnd 1: *k to1 st before m, kfb, sm, kfb, k to m, p2, yo, k1, yo, p2, k to m, p2, k3, p2, k to 1 st before m, kbf, sm, kbf; rep from * once.
Rnd 2: *k to1 st before m, kfb, sm, kfb, k to m, p2, k3, p2, k to m, p2, k3, p2, k to 1 st before m, kbf, sm, kbf; rep from * once.
Rnd 3: As Rnd 2
Rnd 4: *k to1 st before m, kfb, sm, kfb, k to m, p2, k3tog, p2, k to m, p2, k3, p2, k to 1 st before m, kbf, sm, kbf; rep from * once.
Repeat Rnds [1-4] another 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) more times. 333 (370, 396, 413, 439) sts
Divide Sleeves and Body
Set-up Rnd: K104 (112, 116, 127, 136), Sm, place 65 (73, 82, 82, 86) sleeve sts onto st holder or waste yarn, CO 5 (5, 6, 6, 6) sts for underarm, Rm, k99 (112, 116, 122, 131), Rm, place 65 (73, 82, 82, 86) sleeve sts onto st holder or waste yarn, Sm, CO 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts for underarm. 213 (234, 243, 261, 279) sts
Body
Markers are placed before each side decorative ribbing (2, one of them also as Beg of Rnd).
Rnd 1: *K to m, sm, p2, yo, k1, yo, p2, k to m. sm; rep from * once.
Rnd 2: *K to m, sm, p2, k3, p2, k to m. sm; rep from * once.
Rnd 3: As Rnd 2.
Rnd 4: *K to m, sm, p2, k3tog, k to m. sm; rep from * once.
Rep Rnds [1-4] another 10 times or until desired length.
Ribbing:
With US size 7/4.5 mm needles.
Rnd 1: *P2, yo, k1, yo; rep from * around.
Rnd 2: *P2, k3; rep from * around.
Rnd 3: As Rnd 2.
Rnd 4: *P2, k3tog; rep from * around.
Repeat Rnds [1-4] another 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) more times.
BO with standard I-cord technique
Sleeves
With US size 8/ 5mm needles.
Rnd 1: Place sleeve sts onto LN, place BOR m, k to m, p2, yo, k1, yo, p2, k to m, p2, yo, k1, yo, p2, k to end, pick-up and knit 4 (5, 5, 5, 4) sts from body underarm. 69 (78, 87, 87, 90) sts
Markers are placed as BOR and before each decorative ribbing (a total of 3).
Rnd 2: *K to m, sm, p2, k3, p2, k to m. sm; rep from * once.
Rnd 3: As Rnd 2
Rnd 4: *K to m, sm, p2, k3tog, k to m. sm; rep from * once.
Rnd 5: *K to m, sm, p2, yo, k1, yo, p2, k to m, p2, k3, p2, k to end.
Rnd 6: As Row 2
Rnd 7: As Row 3
Rnd 8: As Row 4
Rep Rnds [5-8] another 9 times or until desired length.
Ribbing:
With US size 7/4.5 mm needles.
Rnd 1: *P2, yo, k1, yo; rep from * around.
Rnd 2: *P2, k3; rep from * around.
Rnd 3: As Rnd 2.
Rnd 4: *P2, k3tog; rep from * around.
Repeat Rnds [1-4] another 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) more times.
BO with modified I-cord technique
Finishing
Pick-up stitches from the provisional CO and BO using a standard i-cord technique.
Weave in ends. Wash and block.
Embroidering Flowers (see chart)
Lazy Daisies: Insert your needle through one of the spaces between stitches, from back to front. Insert the needle back through the same hole, leaving a little loop at front and come back up through to the front side at the spot you want the end of the petal to be. Bring your needle to the back wrapping the loop through in the hole where your yarn is coming out. Repeat until you have the desired number of petals. Weave ends.
French Knot: Bring your needle up through the sweater in the middle of the big lazy daisy. Wrap the thread around the needle twice. To finish the knot, insert the needle back into the sweater close to the hole you came out of, and slowly pull the needle through the wrapped loops.
Roses: Insert your needle through one of the spaces between stitches and make a “wheel” with five spokes, assuring all spokes meet in the middle. Bring the yarn to the front through the center of the wheel. Weave the yarn under & over the spokes, going under different spokes each round. Keep going around until the rose extends out to the end of the wheel. Take the yarn to the back and weave ends.
Tails: Use backstitch curlicues to join flowers.
Absolutely lovely