Afternoon Sweater

Skill Level: Advanced

Sizes: Finished Measurements 36½ (39¾, 43, 46¼, 49¾, 53, 56¼)” / [92.5 (101, 109, 117.5, 126.5, 134.5, 143) cm] finished chest circumference.

Shown in size 39¾” / [101 cm].

Gauge 29 sts and 48 rnds = 4″ [10 cm] in Eyelet Ridge Pattern with larger needle.

Materials

Yarn

 Quince & Co. Finch (100% American Wool; 221 yards [202 meters]/50 grams: Caspian, 11 (12, 13, 14, 14, 16, 16) skeins.

Needles: US size 2 (2.75 mm): 16″ circular (cir) and double-pointed (dpn); US size 3 (3.25 mm): 32″ cir and dpn. Adjust needle sizes if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

Notions: Smooth waste yarn for tubular cast-on; markers; stitch holders or waste yarn; tapestry needle.

Abbreviations

beg: begin(ning)

BO: bind off
cir: circular
CO: cast on
cont: continue
dec(‘d): decrease(d)
dpn(s): double pointed needle(s)
est: establish(ed)
inc(‘d): increase(d)
k: knit
k2tog: knit 2 sts together
m: marker
m1: (make 1) insert left needle under horizontal strand between st just worked and next st, from the front to the back, knit through the back loop
m1p: (make 1 purlwise) insert left needle under horizontal strand between st just worked and next st, from the back to the front, purl
mos: months
meas: measure(s)
p: purl
p2tog: purl 2 sts together
pm: place marker
rem: remain(ing)
rep: repeat
rnd(s): round(s)
RS: right side
ssk: (slip, slip, knit) slip 2 sts, 1 at a time, knitwise to the right needle; return sts to left needle in turned position and knit them together through the back loops
ssp: (slip, slip, purl) slip 2 sts, 1 at a time, knitwise to the right needle; return sts to left needle in turned position and purl them together through the back loops
st(s): stitch(es)
WS: wrong side
yo: yarn over

Special Stitches

K2, P2 Ribbing (worked in rnds, multiple of 4 sts)

Rnd 1: *K1, p2, k1; rep from * to end.

Rep Rnd 1 for pattern.

Eyelet Ridge Pattern (multiple of 3 sts)

(also, see chart)

Rnd 1: Knit.
Rnd 2: Purl.
Rnds 3-4: Knit.
Rnd 5: *k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * to end.
Rnd 6: Knit.

Rep Rnds 1-6 for pattern.

Three Needle Bind Off Method

Slip the sts from holders onto each of 2 needles with the RS of garment pieces together (to form ridge on inside of garment), hold the needles parallel. With a third needle knit the first st of front and back needles together, *knit next st from each needle together, (2 sts on right needle), BO 1 st; rep from * until all sts are BO.

Pattern Notes

When working sleeve increases and yoke decreases, be careful to maintain the stitch pattern in the Eyelet Ridge Pattern by working each yo and k2tog together. If there are not enough sts to work both the yo and k2tog, knit the stitches instead.

Pattern

Sleeves

With waste yarn and smaller dpns, using desired method, CO 34 (34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 40) sts. Divide sts evenly over dpns, pm and join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist sts.

Knit 2 rnds.

Change to working yarn, knit 4 rnds.

Next Rnd (RS): *K1, (at the back of your work, pick up lowest working-yarn loop from a few rnds below and purl into it) twice, k1; rep from * to end – 68 (68, 72, 72, 76, 76, 80) sts.

Remove waste yarn.

Work 15 rnds in K2, P2 Ribbing.

Change to larger dpns.

Sizes – (-,43, 46¼, -, -, -)” only

Next Rnd: Knit.

Sizes – (-, -, -, 49¾, 53, -)” only

Inc Rnd: K1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1 – 78 sts.

Sizes 36½ (39¾, -, -, -, -, 56¼)” only

Inc Rnd: K1, *m1, k22 (22, -, -, -, -, 26); rep from * twice more, m1, k1 – 72 (72, -, -, -, -, 84) sts.

All Sizes

Cont working even in Eyelet Ridge Patt until piece meas 2″ / [5 cm] from beg.

Shape Sleeve

Inc Rnd: K1, m1, work as est to last st, m1, k1 – 2 sts inc’d.

Note: If Inc Rnd falls on Rnd 2 of Eyelet Ridge Patt, work as follows: P1, m1p, purl to last st, m1p, p1 – 2 sts inc’d.

Work 10 (7, 6, 5, 5, 4, 4) rnds even, working inc’d sts into the Eyelet Ridge Patt as they become available.

Rep the last 11 (8, 7, 6, 6, 5, 5) rnds 10 (5, 8, 13, 13, 13, 13) more times – 94 (84, 90, 100, 106, 106, 112) sts.

*Rep inc rnd, then work 12 (9, 8, 7, 7, 6, 6) rnds even; rep from * 4 (13, 13, 12, 12, 16, 16) more times – 104 (112, 118, 126, 132, 140, 146) sts.

Cont working even in patt until piece meas about 18½” / [47 cm] from beg, ending after Rnd 3 of patt.

Divide for Underarm

Knit to last 3 (3, 6, 6, 9, 9, 9) sts, place the last 3 (3, 6, 6, 9, 9, 9) sts onto st holder or waste yarn, remove m, then place the next 3 (3, 6, 6, 9, 9, 9) sts onto the same st holder or waste yarn – 98 (106, 106, 114, 114, 122, 128) sts rem. Place rem sts onto a separate st holder or waste yarn for yoke.

Make a second sleeve the same as the first.

Body

With waste yarn and smaller circular needle, using desired method, CO 132 (144, 156, 168, 180, 192, 204) sts, join to work in the rnd.

Knit 3 rnds.

Change to working yarn.

Knit 4 rnds.

Next Rnd: *K1, bring left needle forward to see the WS of the work, (pick up the lowest working-yarn loop on the WS and purl into it) twice, k1; rep from * to end – 264 (288, 312, 336, 360, 384, 408) sts. Remove waste yarn.

Work in K2, P2 Ribbing for 15 rnds.

Change to larger circular needle.

Knit 1 rnd.

Work in Eyelet Ridge Patt until piece meas about 16″ / [40.5 cm] from beg, ending after Rnd 3 of patt.

Divide Back and Fronts

Next Rnd: K135 (147, 162, 174, 189, 201, 213), place the last 6 (6, 12, 12, 18, 18, 18) sts worked onto a st holder or waste yarn for underarm, knit to last 3 (3, 6, 6, 9, 9, 9) sts, place the last 3 (3, 6, 6, 9, 9, 9) sts onto st holder or waste yarn, remove m, then place the next 3 (3, 6, 6, 9, 9, 9) sts onto the same st holder or waste yarn – 126 (138, 144, 156, 162, 174, 186) sts rem each back and front.

Yoke

Cont working with larger circular needle and yarn attached to the body as follows:

Joining Rnd: Return 98 (106, 106, 114, 114, 122, 128) held sts from one sleeve to empty needles and work across, pm, work 126 (138, 144, 156, 162, 174, 186) body sts for front, pm, return 98 (106, 106, 114, 114, 122, 128) held sts from the other sleeve to empty needles and work across, pm, work 126 (138, 144, 156, 162, 174, 186) body sts for back – 448 (488, 500, 540, 552, 592, 628) sts.

Shape Armhole

Body Dec Rnd: *Work to next m, sl m, k2tog or p2tog keeping in patt, work to 2 sts before m, ssk or ssp keeping in patt, sl m; rep from * once more – 4 sts dec’d.

Body and Sleeve Dec Rnd: *K2tog or p2tog keeping in patt, work to 2 sts before m, ssk or ssp, keeping in patt, sl m; rep from * 3 more times – 8 sts dec’d.

Rep the last 2 rnds 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 7) more times – 412 (440, 452, 480, 492, 520, 532) sts rem; 92 (98, 98, 104, 104, 110, 112) sts each sleeve and 114 (122, 128, 136, 142, 150, 154) sts each front and back.

Shape Sleeve Caps

Sizes – (-, 43, -, 49¾, 53, -)” only

Work 3 rnds even as est.

Sleeve Dec Rnd (RS): *K2tog or p2tog keeping in patt, work to 2 sts before next m, ssk or ssp keeping in patt, sl m, work to m, sl m; rep from * once more – 4 sts dec’d.

Rep the last 4 rnds – (-, 0, -, 1, 0, -) more time – – (-, 448, -, 484, 516, -) sts rem; – (-, 96, -, 100, 108, -) sts each sleeve and – (-, 128, -, 142, 150, -) sts each front and back.

All Sizes

Work 1 rnd even as est.

Sleeve Dec Rnd (RS): *K2tog or p2tog keeping in patt, work to 2 sts before next m, ssk or ssp keeping in patt, sl m, work to m, sl m; rep from * once more – 4 sts dec’d.

Rep the last 2 rnds 27 (30, 29, 33, 31, 35, 37) more times – 300 (316, 328, 344, 356, 372, 380) sts rem; 36 sts each sleeve and 114 (122, 128, 136, 142, 150, 154) sts each front and back.

Next Rnd: Work 18 sts, pm for center of sleeve, work 18 sts, sl m, work 48 (50, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59) sts, BO the next 18 (22, 26, 30, 32, 36, 36) sts for front neck, work 48 (50, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59) sts to next m, sl m, work 18 sts, pm for center of sleeve, work 18 sts, sl m, work to end – 282 (294, 302, 314, 324, 336, 344) sts rem; 48 (50, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59) sts each front, 36 sts each sleeve and 114 (122, 128, 136, 142, 150, 154) sts for back. Break yarn.

Sl sts from left needle to the right needle until both needle tips are at the front neck BO. Rejoin yarn to the right front, preparing to work a RS row.

Note: When working the following shaping the fronts and back will be worked one at a time using short-rows, beginning with the right front. The sleeve cap stitches will be decreased at the sleeve edge of the fronts and back. Neck shaping will occur on the fronts. When all sleeve cap decreasing is complete, there should be 1 sleeve stitch remaining to each side of the center marker.

Shape Right Front Neck and Sleeve Caps with Short-Rows

Short-Row 1 (RS): BO 6 sts, work as established to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, ssk, turn work so WS is facing – 42 (44, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53) sts rem on right front; 35 sts rem on right sleeve.
Short-Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 pwise wyf, sl m, work to end.
Short-Row 3 (RS): K1, k2tog, work as established to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, ssk, turn work so WS is facing – 1 right front st and 1 right sleeve st decreased.
Short-Row 4: Sl 1 pwise wyf, sl m, work to end.

Rep the last 2 short-rows 10 more times – 31 (33, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42) sts rem on right front and 24 sts rem on right sleeve.

Short-Row 5: K1, work as established to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, ssk, turn work so WS is facing – 1 right sleeve st decreased.
Short-Row 6: Sl 1 pwise wyf, sl m, work to end.

Rep the last 2 short-rows 3 more times – 20 sts rem on right sleeve.

Shape Right Front Shoulder with Short-Rows

Short-Row 7 (RS): K1, work 23 (25, 26, 27, 28, 30, 31) sts, wrap next st and turn so WS is facing.
Short-Row 8 (WS): Work to last st, p1.
Short-Row 9 (RS): K1, work 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21) sts, wrap next st and turn so WS is facing.
Short-Row 10: Work to last st, p1.
Short-Row 11: K1, work 8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts, wrap next st and turn so WS is facing.
Short-Row 12: Work to last st, p1.

Work Back and Shape Sleeve Caps with Short-Rows

Short-Row 13 (RS): K1, work as established to 1 st before armhole m hiding wraps as they appear, k1, sl m, ssk, k1, sl center sleeve m, work as established across rem right sleeve sts to 2 sts before next m, k2tog, sl m, k1, work as established across back sts to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, ssk, turn work so WS is facing – 18 sts rem on right sleeve, 35 sts rem on left sleeve.
Short-Row 14 (WS): Sl 1 pwise wyf, sl m, work to next m, sl m, sl 2 sts pwise wyf, turn work so RS is facing.
Short-Row 15: K2tog, sl m, work as established across back to 1 st before next m, k1, sl m, ssk, turn work so WS is facing – 1 st decreased on each sleeve.
Short-Row 16: Sl 1 pwise wyf, sl m, work to next m, sl m, sl 2 sts pwise wyf, turn work so RS is facing.

Rep the last 2 short-rows 12 more times – 5 sts rem on right sleeve, 22 sts rem on left sleeve.

Shape Right Back Neck and Right Sleeve Cap with Short-Rows

Short-Row 17 (RS): K2tog, sl m, work 38 (40, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49) sts, wrap next st, turn work so WS is facing – 4 sts rem on right sleeve.
Short-Row 18 (WS): Work to m, sl m, sl 2 sts pwise wyf, turn work.
Short-Row 19: K2tog, sl m, work 34 (36, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45) sts, wrap next st and turn work so WS is facing – 3 sts rem on right sleeve.
Short-Row 20: Work to m, sl m, sl 2 sts pwise wyf, turn work.

Shape Left Back Neck and Left Sleeve Cap with Short-Rows

Short-Row 21 (RS): K2tog, sl m, work to next m hiding wraps as they appear, sl m, ssk, turn work so WS is facing – 2 sts rem on right sleeve, 21 sts rem on left sleeve.
Short-Row 22 (WS): Sl 1 pwise wyf, sl m, work 38 (40, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49) sts, wrap next st, turn work.
Short-Row 23: Work to m, sl m, ssk, turn work so WS is facing – 20 sts rem on left sleeve.
Short-Row 24: Sl 1 pwise wyf, sl m, work 34 (36, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45) sts, wrap next st, turn work.

Shape Left Front Neck and Sleeve cap with Short-Rows

Short-Row 25 (RS): Work to m, remove m, ssk, k1, sl center sleeve m, work as established across rem right sleeve sts to 3 sts before next m, k2tog, sl m, work to end – 18 sts rem on left sleeve.
Short-Row 26 (WS): BO 6 sts, work as established to next m, sl m, sl 2 sts pwise wyf, turn work so RS is facing – 42 (44, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53) sts rem on left front.
Short-Row 27: K2tog, sl m, work as established to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 – 1 left front st and 1 left sleeve st decreased.
Short-Row 28: Work as established to m, sl m, sl 2 sts pwise wyf, turn work so RS is facing.

Rep the last 2 short-rows 10 more times – 31 (33, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42) sts rem on left front and 7 sts rem on left sleeve.

Short-Row 29: K2tog, sl m, work to end – 1 left sleeve st decreased.
Short-Row 30: Work as established to m, sl m, sl 2 sts pwise wyf, turn work so RS is facing.

Rep the last 2 short-rows 3 more times – 3 sts rem on left sleeve.

Short-Row 31: K2tog, sl m, work to end – 2 sts rem on left sleeve.

Shape Left Front Shoulder with Short-Rows

Short-Row 32 (WS): P1, work 23 (25, 26, 27, 28, 30, 31) sts, wrap next st and turn so RS is facing.
Short-Row 33 (RS): Work to last st, k1.
Short-Row 34: P1, work 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21) sts, wrap next st and turn so RS is facing.
Short-Row 35: Work to last st, k1.
Short-Row 36: P1, work 8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10) sts, wrap next st and turn so RS is facing.
Short-Row 37: Work to last st, k1.

Next Row (WS): Work to m, remove m, sl 2 sts pwise wyf, sl m, work 31 (33, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42) sts, BO center 52 (56, 60, 64, 66, 70, 70) sts for back neck hiding wraps as they appear, work to next m, remove m, sl 2 sts pwise wyf, work to end – 64 (68 70, 74, 78, 82, 86) sts remain each side for shoulders.

Divide sts on each shoulder in half onto 2 larger dpn. Hold the needles parallel with RS facing tog and use the three-needle method to BO sts tog.

Finishing

Underarm Join

Return 6 (6, 12, 12, 18, 18, 18) held underarm sts from each sleeve and body to separate dpns, then pick up 1 additional st at each end of each dpn – 8 (8, 14, 14, 20, 20, 20) sts on each of 2 needles. Turn work inside out so RS of pieces are facing each other. Join yarn and use the three-needle bind-off to join the sts on both needles together. Rep for second underarm.

Block piece to measurements.

Neck Trim

With RS facing and smaller circular needle, beg at right shoulder, pick up and 50 (54, 58, 62, 64, 68, 68) sts along back neck BO, 22 sts along selvedge edge of neckline, 30 (34, 38, 42, 44, 48, 48) sts along front neck BO, then 22 sts along selvedge edge of neckline – 124 (132, 140, 148, 152, 160, 160) sts. Pm for beg of rnd and join to work in the rnd. Work in K2, P2 Ribbing for 11 rnds. BO all sts in patt.

Weave in ends.

Block again if desired.