When plain stockinette stitch socks are too easy but lace or cables feel out of reach, a knitter might need a stepping stone, such as this cuff-down sock that makes use of twisted stitches. While these stitches may look complex to work, they are actually quite simple, just as the charts are simple to read.
Skill Level: Advanced
Size: Women’s small/medium: 7” circumference, medium/large: 8” circumference
Gauge: 8 sts = 1 inch in Stockinette stitch
Materials
Yarn: Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock Yarn (80% superwash merino wool, 20% nylon; 435 yards [393 meters]/100 grams): Verve (1 skein)
Needles: US size 0 (2.0 mm) double pointed needles
Notions: Stitch marker, row counter, scissors, yarn needle
Abbreviations
ktbl: knit through the back loop
ptbl: purl through the back loop
wyif: with yarn in front
ssk: slip, slip, knit
k2tog: knit 2 together
p2tog: purl 2 together
Special Stitches
K1tbl, p1 rib: *k1tbl, p1**, repeat from * to ** to end of round.
K1tbl, p3 rib: *k1tbl, p3**, repeat from * to ** to end of round.
Pattern
Cuff (Right and Left)
Cast on 56 (64) sts and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker to mark beginning of the round.
Work 4 rounds in k1tbl, p1 rib, then 12 rounds in k1tbl, p3 rib.
Leg (Left)
Work 2 full repeats of chart A. You will work the chart 7 (8) times around.
On the last full round of the last chart repeat: P1 into the front of the last stitch and k1 into the back of the same stitch. (1 st increased)
Turn work and divide for heel: Turn work. Place first 29 (33) sts on one needle for heel flap and divide remaining 28 (32) sts over two needles to be held unworked for the gusset.
Heel (Left)
Row 1 (WS): Sl 1 wyif, *k3, p1tbl*, repeat from * to last st, k1tbl.
Row 2 (RS): Sl 1 wyif, *p3, k1tbl*, repeat from * to last st, k1tbl.
Repeat rows 1-2 10 (12) times more, 11 (13) times total. Work row 1 once more. Right side facing.
Leg (Right)
Before beginning chart B, knit first stitch of the round through the back loop onto the last needle to shift the beginning of the round back 1 stitch. The new beginning will be a purl stitch. Work 2 full repeats of chart B. You will work the chart 7 (8) times around.
Turn work and divide for heel: Turn work. Place first 28 (32) sts on one needle for heel flap and divide remaining 28 (32) sts over two needles to be held unworked for the gusset.
Heel (Right)
Row 1 (WS): Sl 1 wyif, *k3, p1tbl*, repeat from * to last st, p1 and k1tbl into last st. (1 st increased, 29 (33) sts)
Row 2: Sl 1 wyif, *p3, k1tbl*, repeat from * to last st, k1tbl. (RS)
Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, *k3, p1tbl*, repeat from * to last st, k1tbl. (WS)
Repeat rows 2-3 10 (12) times more, 11 (13) times total. Right side facing.
Turn Heel (Left and Right)
Row 1: Sl 1 wyif, k16(18), ssk, k1, turn.
Row 2: Sl1 wyif, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1 wyif, k to one stitch before the gap, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1 wyif, p to one stitch before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 until 17 (19) stitches remain; on the second-to-last row, end with a ssk (turn), and on the last row, end with a p2tog (turn). Right side facing. Knit 1 row.
Gusset
Set-up Round (Left): Pick up 13 (15) sts along left side of heel flap; work row 1 of chart A; pick up 13 (15) sts along right side of heel flap, knit 7 (9) from heel flap stitches.
The needle you are ready to work is Needle 1: 23 (25) stitches; Needle 2 (chart needle): 28 (32) stitches; Needle 3: 22 (24) stitches.
Set-up Round (Right): Pick up 13 (15) sts along left side of heel flap; work row 1 of chart B; pick up 13 (15) sts along right side of heel flap, knit 7 (9) from heel flap stitches.
The needle you are ready to work is Needle 1: 23 (25) stitches; Needle 2 (chart needle): 28 (32) stitches; Needle 3: 22 (24) stitches.
Gusset Decreases (Left and Right)
Rnd 1: Needle 1: knit to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1. Needle 2: work according to chart. Needle 3: k1, ssk, knit to end of needle.
Rnd 2: Needle 1: knit. Needle 2: work according to chart. Needle 3: knit.
Repeat rounds 1-2 until 57 (65) stitches remain.
Continue to repeat round 2 until foot measures 2 inches less than desired finished length. Stop working after completing an odd-numbered chart row.
Toe
Left Foot
Rnd 1: Needle 1: Knit to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1. Needle 2: K1, ssk, p1, *k1tbl, p3, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end.
Rnd 2: Needle 1: Knit. Needle 2: K2, work in k1tbl, p3 rib pattern as established to last 2 stitches, k2. Needle 3: Knit.
Rnd 3: Needle 1: Knit to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1. Needle 2: K1, ssk, work in k1tbl, p3 rib pattern as established to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1. Needle 3: K1, ssk, k to end.
Repeat rnds 2-3 until 29 stitches remain.
Next rnd: Work as for rnd 3, EXCEPT work k3tog instead of k2tog on Needle 1. (24 sts remain)
Knit sts from Needle 1 onto Needle 3 and close toe using Kitchener stitch.
Right Foot
Rnd 1: Needle 1: Knit to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1. Needle 2: K1, ssk, k1tbl, *p3, k1tbl, repeat from * to last 4 sts, p1, k2tog, k1. Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end.
Rnd 2: Needle 1: Knit. Needle 2: K2, work in k1tbl, p3 rib pattern as established to last 2 stitches, k2. Needle 3: Knit.
Rnd 3: Needle 1: Knit to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1. Needle 2: K1, ssk, work in k1tbl, p3 rib pattern as established to 3 sts before end of needle, k2tog, k1. Needle 3: K1, ssk, k to end.
Repeat rnds 2 and 3 until 29 stitches remain.
Next round: Work as for round 3, EXCEPT work k3tog instead of k2tog on Needle 1. (24 sts remain)
Knit sts from Needle 1 onto Needle 3 and close toe using Kitchener stitch.