The Refined Blazer Vest is a sophisticated, double-breasted sleeveless coat inspired by Naval style. Worked in pieces from the bottom up and then seamed, this vest features a polished design. The front opening, lapels and pocket top edges are finished with an i-cord bind-off in a contrasting color for added detail. Patch pockets are attached to the body after the panels have been blocked and seamed, ensuring a precise fit.
Time: 3-4 weeks, depending on knitter’s experience.
Skill Level: Advanced
Sizes written as XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X): Finished Bust Size 33.5 (37, 41, 45.5, 49.5) (53, 57, 61.5, 65.5)”
5”-5.5” positive ease recommended.
Gauge: 19 sts and 28 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after wet blocking
Materials
Yarn: Tukuwool DK (100 % Finnish Sheep Wool; 273 yards [250 meters] / 3.5 ounces [100 grams]): H27 Tyyni (MC) 2 (3, 3, 3, 4) (4, 4, 5, 5) skeins, 39 Manna (CC) 1 skein
Needles: US size 5 3.75 mm, 24” or longer circular needles; one pair of straight needles of the same size for upper front (optional)
Notions: Markers, removable markers, stitch holders or waste yarn tapestry needle, four 5/8” buttons
Abbreviations
Patt – pattern
Est – established
M1R – make one right-leaning st
M1L – make one left-leaning st
Sm – slip marker
Special Stitches
One Row Button Hole
Bring working yarn to front, Sl 1, bring yarn to back.
[Sl one more st and pass the previous Sl st over it] 3 times.
Sl first st from right needle back to left needle, turn work.
Bring working yarn to back, passing it between needles.
Make cable cast on: [Insert right needle between first and second sts of the left needle, k1 and place it on left needle making it first st] 4 times. Before placing last loop on left needle bring yarn to front, place loop on left needle, turn work.
Sl the first st from right needle to the left needle, k2tog.
I-cord BO
CO 3 extra sts and place them in the beg of the BO row.
*K2, SSK, slide all 3 sts from right needle back to the left needle.
Rep from * to last 3 sts, k3tog, tie and break yarn.
Pattern Notes
This double-breasted sleeveless coat is worked as one piece from the bottom up to armholes, then back and fronts are worked separately.
Front opening/lapels and the pocket top edges are finished with i-cord BO in contrast color.
All over St st is featured with vertical stripes of Broken Rib Pockets are worked separately and then tacked to fronts.
This pattern contains the sections for either Front, in which two shapings are worked simultaneously (AT THE SAME TIME). Read a whole section before proceeding. To keep track of both shaping portions, use 2 row counters, or make written notes for each shaping.
Pattern
Back
With MC CO 72 (82, 92, 100, 110) (120, 130, 144, 158) sts.
Work first 3 rows in Garter stitch, ending with WS row.
Row 1 (RS): K29 (34, 39, 41, 46, 51, 53, 60, 67), PM, k14 (14, 14, 18, 18) (18, 24, 24, 24), PM, k to end.
Row 2 (WS): K2, p to m, SM, [k2, p2] to 2 sts before next M, k2, SM, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Slipping M’s, rep rows 1-2 another 4 (3, 3, 4, 4) (3, 3, 2, 2) more times.
Waist Shaping
Dec Row (RS): K2, k2tog, cont in est patt to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 2 sts dec’d.
Rep Dec Row every – (14, 16, -, 22) (16, 16, 12, 10)th row – (3, 2, -, 1) (3, 3, 3, 2) more times, and then every 18 (-, 14, 20, 20) (-, -, 10, 8)th row 2 (-, 1, 2, 1) (-, -, 2, 5) times, ending after WS row. (66 (74, 84, 94, 104) (112, 122, 132, 142) sts.)
Work in est patt without shaping 14 (10, 12, 16, 16) (12, 12, 10, 8) foll rows.
Bust Shaping
Inc Row (RS): K2, M1R, cont in est patt to last 2 sts, M1L, k2. 2 sts inc’d.
Rep Inc Row every 6th row 6 more times, ending after WS row. (80 (88, 98, 108, 118) (126, 136, 146, 156) sts)
Work in est patt without shaping 2 foll rows.
Armholes Shaping
Cont in est patt and place on waste yarn 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 7, 8) sts at the end of next 2 rows,
then 3 sts at the end of next 2 (2, 2, 2, 4) (4, 4, 6, 6) rows, and then 2 sts at the end of next 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) (4, 6, 8, 8) rows. (62 (70, 78, 88, 90) (94, 98, 98, 106) sts)
Dec Row (RS): Sl1, k2tog, work in pattern to last 3 sts, ssk, P1. 2 sts dec’d.
Rep Dec Row every RS row 2 (6, 8, 12, 12) (13, 14, 13, 14) more times, ending with WS row. (56 (56, 60, 62, 64) (66, 68, 70, 76) sts)
Cont in est patt without shaping 44 (36, 36, 32, 34) (30, 28, 28, 28) foll rows.
Neck and shoulders
BO 14 (14, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 17) right shoulder sts, work in patt to end. Turn.
BO 14 (14, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 17) left shoulder sts, place on waste yarn 28 (28, 32, 34, 36) (36, 38, 40, 42) neck sts.
Left Front
Note that Front Opening Shaping and Waist Shaping are worked simultaneously and direction for both begins on the same row (Marked with asterisk).
CO 28 (33, 38, 42, 45) (50, 55, 62, 67) sts.
Work first 3 rows in Garter stitch, ending with WS row.
Front Opening Shaping
* Row 1 (RS): K10 (15, 18, 21, 25) (30, 34, 40, 45), PM, k10, PM, k to last st, p1.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, p to m, SM, [k2, p2] twice, k2, SM, p to last 2 sts, k2.
Slipping M’s, work sts as directed above and work shaping as foll:
Inc Row (RS): Work in patt to last st, M1L, p1. 1 st inc’d.
Rep Inc Row every 4 th row 9 (9, 10, 10, 6) (6, 6, 6, 5) more times and then every RS row 8 (8, 9, 9, 18) (18, 18, 20, 23) times, ending after WS row.
**Work in est patt without shaping 12 (8, 10, 14, 14) (10, 10, 8, 6) foll rows.
AT THE SAME TIME work
Waist Shaping
* Foll Front Opening Shaping for 10 (8, 8, 10, 1) (8, 8, 6, 6) rows.
Cont Front Opening Shaping and AT THE SAME TIME work Waist Shaping as foll:
Dec Row (RS): K2, k2tog, cont in patt to end. 1 st dec’d.
Rep Dec Row every – (14, 16, -, 22) (16, 16, 12, 10)th row – (3, 2, -, 1) (3, 3, 3, 2) more times, and then every 18 (-, 14, 20, 20) (-, -, 10, 8)th row 2 (-, 1, 2, 1) (-, -, 2, 5) times, ending after WS row.
Cont in patt foll Front Opening Shaping. (43 (47, 54, 59, 67) (71, 76, 83, 88) Waist sts)
Left Lapel Patt
Note: lapel is worked AT THE SAME TIME as marked with double Asterisk above (end of Front Opening Shaping)
**Row 1 and all RS rows: Work in est patt.
All sizes:
Rows 2 & 4 (WS): Sl 1, k2, cont in est patt to end.
Rows 6 & 8: Sl 1, k2, p2, k2, cont in est patt to end.
Rows 10 & 12: Sl 1, [k2, p2] twice, k2, cont in est patt to end.
Rows 14 & 16: Sl 1, [k2, p2] 3 times, k2, cont in est patt to end.
Rows 18 & 20: Sl 1, [k2, p2] 4 times, k2, cont in est patt to end.
Rows 22 & 24: Sl 1, [k2, p2] 5 times, k2, cont in est patt to end.
Sizes M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X only:
Rows 26 & 28: Sl 1, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2, cont in est patt to end.
Sizes XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X only:
Rows 30 & 32: Sl 1, [k2, p2] 7 times, k2, cont in est patt to end.
Sizes 4X, 5X only:
Rows 34 & 36: Sl 1, [k2, p2] 8 times, k2, cont in est patt to end.
All sizes again:
Maintain Lapel texture stitch patt as for last 2 rows given for each size until Front section is completed.
Bust Shaping
Inc Row 1 (RS): K2, M1R, cont in est patt to last st, p1. 1 st inc’d.
Rep Inc Row every 6 th row 6 more times, ending after WS row. (50 (54, 61, 66, 74) (78, 83, 90, 95) sts).
Work in est patt without shaping 2 foll rows.
Armhole Shaping
Work one row (RS) in est patt.
Cont in est patt and place on waste yarn 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 7, 8) sts at the end of foll WS row, then 3 sts at the end of foll 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 3, 3) WS rows, and then 2 sts at the end of foll 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 4) rows. (41 (45, 51, 56, 60) (62, 64, 66, 70) sts)
Dec Row (RS): Sl1, k2tog, work in patt to end. 1 st dec’d.
Rep Dec Row every RS row 2 (6, 8, 12, 12) (13, 14, 13, 14) more times, ending after WS row. (38 (38, 42, 43, 47) (48, 49, 52, 55) sts.)
Cont in est patt without shaping 44 (36, 36, 32, 34) (30, 28, 28, 28) foll rows.
BO 14 (14, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 17) left shoulder sts, place on waste yarn 24 (24, 28, 29, 33) (33, 34, 37, 38) lapel sts.
Right Front
Note that Front Opening Shaping and Waist Shaping are worked simultaneously and direction for both begins on the same row (Marked with Asterix).
CO 28 (33, 38, 42, 45) (50, 55, 62, 67) sts.
Work 3 rows in Garter stitch, ending with WS row.
* Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, k7 (7, 9, 10, 9) (9, 10, 11, 11), PM, k10, PM, k to end.
Row 2 (WS): K2, p to m, SM, [k2, p2] twice, k2, SM, p to last st, p1.
Front Opening Shaping
Slipping M’s, work sts as directed above and work shaping as foll:
Inc Row (RS): Sl 1, M1R, cont in patt, incorporating with Waist Shaping.
Rep Inc Row every 4 th row 9 (9, 10, 10, 6) (6, 6, 6, 5) more times and then every RS row 8 (8, 9, 9, 18) (18, 18, 20, 23) times, ending after WS row.
Button Holes
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, k1, work One Row Button Hole, k9 (9, 13, 13, 19) (19, 19, 23, 23), work One Row Button Hole, cont in est patt to end.
Row 2: Work in est patt to end.
**Work in est patt without shaping 10 (6, 8, 12, 12) (8, 8, 6, 4) foll rows.
AT THE SAME TIME work
Waist Shaping
*Foll Front Opening Shaping for 10 (8, 8, 10, 10) (8, 8, 6, 6) rows.
Cont Front Opening Shaping and AT THE SAME TIME work Waist Shaping as foll:
Dec Row (RS): Work in est patt to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 1 st dec’d.
Rep Dec Row every – (14, 16, -, 22) (16, 16, 12, 10)th row – (3, 2, -, 1) (3, 3, 3, 2) more times, and then every 18 (-, 14, 20, 20) (-, -, 10, 8)th row 2 (-, 1, 2, 1) (-, -, 2, 5) times, ending after WS row.
Cont as directed for Front Opening Shaping. (43 (47, 54, 59, 67) (71, 76, 83, 88) Waist sts)
Right Lapel
Note: lapel st pattern begins AT THE SAME TIME as Bust Shaping (see double blue asterisk above)
All sizes:
**Row 1 and all RS rows: Sl 1, cont in patt to end.
Rows 2 & 4 (WS): Work in est patt to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
Rows 6 & 8: Work in patt to last 7 sts, k2, p2, k2, p1.
Rows 10 & 12: Work in patt to last 11 sts, [k2, p2] twice, k2, p1.
Rows 14 & 16: Work in patt to last 15 sts, [k2, p2] 3 times, k2, p1.
Rows 18 & 20: Work in patt to last 19 sts, [k2, p2] 4 times, k2, p1.
Rows 22 & 24: Work in patt to last 23 sts, [k2, p2] 5 times, k2, p1.
Sizes M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X only:
Rows 26 & 28: Work in patt to last 27 sts, [k2, p2] 6 times, k2, p1.
Sizes XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X only:
Rows 30 & 32: Work in patt to last 31 sts, [k2, p2] 7 times, k2, p1.
Sizes 4X, 5X only:
Rows 34 & 36: Work in patt to last 35 sts, [k2, p2] 8 times, k2, p1.
All sizes again:
Maintain Lapel texture stitch patt as for last 2 rows given for each size until Front section is completed.
Bust Shaping
**Inc Row (RS): Sl 1, work in est patt to last 2 sts, M1L, k2. 1 st inc’d.
Rep Inc Row every 6 th row 6 more times, ending after WS row. (50 (54, 61, 66, 74) (78, 83, 90, 95) sts)
Work in est patt without shaping 2 foll rows.
Armhole Shaping
Work in est patt and place on waste yarn 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 7, 8) sts at the end of first RS row, then 3 sts at the end of foll 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 3, 3) RS rows, and then 2 sts at the end of foll 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (2, 3, 4, 4) RS rows. (41 (45, 51, 56, 60) (62, 64, 66, 70) sts) End with WS row.
Dec Row (RS): Sl1, work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, p1. 1 st dec’d.
Rep Dec Row every RS row 2 (6, 8, 12, 12) (13, 14, 13, 14) more times, ending with WS row. (38 (38, 42, 43, 47) (48, 49, 52, 55) sts)
Cont in est patt without shaping 43 (35, 35, 31, 33) (29, 27, 27, 27) foll rows, ending after RS row.
BO 14 (14, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 17) right shoulder sts, place on waste yarn 24 (24, 28, 29, 33) (33, 34, 37, 38) right lapel sts.
Finishing
Block body panels to measurements. Sew shoulder seams.
Armhole Trims: work both the same.
With MC, RS facing and beg at armhole side point, k9 (9, 10, 10, 14) (16, 19, 24, 25) live underarm sts, PU and k 38 (38, 40, 44, 46) (46, 48, 50, 52) sts up to shoulder seam, PU and k 38 (38, 40, 44, 46) (46, 48, 50, 52) sts down from shoulder seam, k9 (9, 10, 10, 14) (16, 19, 24, 25) rem live underarm sts. (94 (94, 100, 108, 120) (124, 134, 148, 154) sts).
Beg with next Row (WS), work 3 rows in Garter st (k all sts).
BO all sts. Sew side seams.
Front Opening Trim
With MC, RS facing and beg at right Front hem corner, PU and k 40 (40, 44, 44) (46, 46, 46, 50, 50) sts up to right lapel corner, PU and k64 (64, 67, 70, 72) (72, 74, 75, 76) sts along the lapel edge, k24 (24, 28, 29, 33) (33, 34, 37, 38) live right lapel sts, k28 (28, 32, 34, 36) (36, 38, 40, 42) live neck sts, k24 (24, 28, 29, 33) (33, 34, 37, 38) live left lapel sts, PU and k 64 (64, 67, 70, 72) (72, 74, 75, 76) sts down to lapel slope, PU and k 40 (40, 44, 44, 46) (46, 46, 50, 50) sts down to hem. (284 (284, 310, 320, 338) (338, 346, 364, 370) sts)
Break MC. Slide needle back to the beg of RS row and with CC work i-cord BO.
Pockets: work both the same
With MC CO 22 (22, 22, 24, 24) (24, 26, 26, 26) sts.
Set-up Row (WS): K6 (6, 6, 7, 7) (7, 8, 8, 8), pm, k10, pm, k6 (6, 6, 7, 7) (7, 8, 8, 8).
Row 1: K to end slipping m’s.
Row 2: K1, p5 (5, 5, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7, 7), sm, [k2, p2] 4 times, k2, sm, p5 (5, 5, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7, 7), k1.
Work rows 1-2 fifteen more times.
Next Row (RS): K to end. Break MC. Slide needle back to beg of RS row and work i-cord BO.
Attach the pocket to Front panels, using hem border as the reference for the pocket bottom and texture stripe on Front to line up the texture stripe of the pocket.
Sew on 4 buttons as shown on the sample image.
Block garment one more time if desired.