Inspired by 1940s style, the Retro Revival Pleated Top features short sleeves pleated at the top, deep hems and a crew-neck. This top is crafted with columns of three-stitch cables and a two-color textured stitch pattern formed by stripes and slipped stitches. The hems and neck are worked in single ribbing with a contrasting color, adding a classic yet modern touch to this timeless piece.
Time: 60 Hours pattern
Skill level: Intermediate
Size: Finished bust size 35.75 (40, 44, 47.75, 52)”, to fit bust 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)” with 4″ ease.
Shown in size 32″
Gauge: 27 sts and 51 rows with needles US size 4 (3.5mm) = 4″ [10 cm] in pattern, after wet blocking
Materials
Yarn: Scheepjes Metropolis (75% Extra Fine Merino Wool, 25% Nylon, 219 yards [200 meters] /50 grams): #057 Milan (MC – 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) balls), #048 Sydney (CC – 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) balls).
Needles: US size 4 (3.5mm) straight or circular needles. US size 3 (3mm) straight or circular needles.
Notions: tapestry needle, cable needle (optional).
Abbreviations
C3R (without a cable needle): Knit three together, keep on left needle. Knit into the first and second stitch again and slide off.
C3R (with a cable needle): Slip next stitch to cable needle and place at back of work, k2, then k1 from cable needle.
Yf: bring yarn in front of work.
Yb: bring yarn at back of work.
Special Stitches
Knot Ridges with Twists Stitch Pattern (multiples of 8 + 5)
Row 1 (RS): With CC1, k5, *C3R, k5, rep from * to end.
Row 2 (WS): With CC1, purl.
Row 3: With MC, [k1, sl1] twice, k1, *sl 3, [k1, sl1] twice, k1, rep from * to end.
Row 4: With MC, [k1, sl1] twice, k1, * yf, sl 3, yb, [k1, sl1] twice, k1, rep from * to end.
Sloped BO
To prevent “stair steps” from forming between subsequent BO rows, use the sloped BO method as following: On the first BO row, bind off as usual to define the initial part of the slope. Work the next row to the last st, but do not work the last st. Turn work so that the unworked st becomes the first st on the RH needle. Sl the first st on the LH needle pwise, then BO the unworked st by lifting it over the sl st and off the needle.
Pattern notes
The back, fronts, and sleeves are worked flat from the bottom up and sewn together.
Pattern
Back
With smaller needles and MC, CO 125 (141, 149, 165, 181) sts and work in 1×1 rib for 22 rows, or until piece measures 2.25″.
Change to larger needles and cont. in patt.
Shape armholes
When Back measures 10.25 (9.75, 9.25, 9, 8.75)”, BO 7 (9, 10, 11, 13) sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, 2 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, then 1 st at the beginning of next 12 (16, 20, 24, 32) rows. 89 (97, 99, 109, 113) sts
Cont. straight until armhole measures 8 (8.50, 9, 9.50, 10)” finishing with a WS Row.
Next Row (RS): BO 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) sts, work in patt to end. (86 (93, 95, 105, 109) sts)
Next Row: BO 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) sts, work in patt to end. (83 (89, 91, 101, 105) sts)
Divide for front neck
Next Row: BO 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) sts, work 24 (25, 25, 28, 29) sts in patt, BO central 29 (31, 33, 37, 39) sts, work in patt to end.
Next Row: BO 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) sts, work 24 (25, 25, 28, 29) sts in patt, turn and place unworked sts on hold for Right back neck.
** Next Row: BO 3 sts at neck edge, work in patt to end. (21 (22, 22, 25, 26) sts)
Next Row: BO 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) sts, work in patt to end. (18 (19, 19, 21, 22) sts)
Rep last 2 rows once more. (12 (13, 13, 14, 15) sts)
Next Row: BO 2 sts at neck edge, work in patt to end. (10 (11, 11, 12, 13) sts)
Next Row: BO 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) sts, work in patt to end. (7 (8, 8, 8, 9) sts)
Next Row: BO 2 sts at neck edge, work in patt to end. (5 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts)
Next Row: BO 3 (3, 3, 3, 4) sts, work in patt to end. (2 (3, 3, 3, 3) sts)
BO.
Shape Right back neck & shoulder
With WS facing, rejoin yarn to rem sts. (24 (25, 25, 28, 29) sts)
Front
With smaller needles and MC, CO 125 (141, 149, 165, 181) sts and work in 1×1 rib for 22 rows, or until piece measures 2.25″.
Change to larger needles and cont. in patt.
Shape armholes
When Front measures 10.25 (9.75, 9.25, 9, 8.75)”, BO 7 (9, 10, 11, 13) sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, 2 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, then 1 st at the beginning of next 12 (16, 20, 24, 32) rows. 89 (97, 99, 109, 113) sts
Cont straight until armhole measures 5.50 (6, 6.50, 7, 7.50)” finishing with a WS Row.
Divide for front neck
Shape shoulder
When armhole measures 8 (8.50, 9, 9.50, 10)”, BO 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) sts at the beginning of next 6 (2, 2, 5, 6) WS rows, then BO 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) sts at the beginning of next 1 (5, 5, 2, 1) WS rows.
Shape Left front neck & shoulder
With WS facing, rejoin yarn to rem sts. sts
Shape shoulder
When armhole measures 8 (8.50, 9, 9.50, 10)”, BO 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) sts at the beginning of next 6 (2, 2, 5, 6) RS rows, then BO 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) sts at the beginning of next 1 (5, 5, 2, 1) RS rows.
Sleeves
Work both the same.
With smaller needles and MC, CO 79 (83, 91, 99, 103) sts and work in 1×1 rib for 15 rows, or until piece measures 1.50″.
Next Row (WS): Purl, inc 38 (42, 42, 42, 62) sts. (117 (125, 133, 141, 165) sts)
Change to larger needles and cont. in patt.
Work straight until sleeve measures 5″.
Shape cup:
BO 7 (9, 10, 11, 13) sts at the beginning of next 2 rows. (103 (107, 113, 119, 139) sts)
BO 1 st at the beginning of next 38 (34, 34, 34, 54) rows. (65 (73, 79, 85, 85) sts)
Work 2 rows. BO 1 st at the beginning of next 2 rows.
Rep last 4 rows 10 (12, 13, 14, 10) more times. (43 (47, 51, 55, 63) sts)
BO all sts.
Finishing
Block all pieces to finished measurements.
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew right shoulder.
Neckband:
With RS facing, smaller needles and MC, pick up and knit 130 (134, 138, 144, 148) sts along neck edge and work in 1×1 rib. When neckband measures 1.25″ BO all sts in rib.
Sew left shoulder and neckband seam.
With yarn thread to a tapestry needle, work two rows of basting sts across the top of the cup and gently pull on both ends of the basting thread to gather the top edge to the desired width.
Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew underarm and side seams.
Weave in ends.