This cropped pullover with a split high/low hem is meticulously crafted in a seamless fashion. The process begins by working it in the round from the bottom up. After reaching the armholes, the pullover is divided, and the subsequent sections are worked flat. To shape the deep shoulders, German short rows are skillfully employed, enhancing the overall silhouette. The shoulders are later joined using a three-needle bind-off technique for a neat finish. Continuing the seamless construction, stitches for the sleeves are deftly picked up around the armhole and worked in the round until reaching the cuff. This cohesive approach results in a stylish pullover with a well-defined structure and a harmonious blend of techniques.
Time: 3 weeks
Skill Level: Intermediate
Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X): Finished Bust Size 38 (42, 46, 50, 54) (58, 62, 66)”/95 (105, 115, 125, 135) (145, 155, 165) cm to fit bust 30 (34, 38, 42, 46) (50, 54, 58)”/75 (85, 95, 105, 115) (125, 135, 145) cm
8”/20 cm positive ease recommended.
Shown in size 42”/115 cm
Gauge: 26 sts and 34 rows/rnds = 4” [10 cm] in Stockinette st with larger needles, blocked
Materials
Yarn: Knit Picks Comfy Fingering weight (75% Pima Cotton, 25% Acrylic; 218 yards [199 meters]/1.75 ounces [50 grams]): #25759 Parchment (MC 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 7) skeins and #24822 Planetarium (CC 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) (4, 5, 5)
Total yarn needed: 748 (809, 914, 999, 1099) (1237, 1333, 1409) yds/684 (739, 836, 914, 1005) (1131, 1219, 1288) m of MC and 510 (555, 610, 665, 728) (819, 884, 944) yds/466 (508, 558, 609, 665) (749, 808, 863) m of CC.
Needles: US size 3 3.25 mm, circular 16”/40 cm and 24 – 36”/60-80 cm, depending on size, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns) or size needed to obtain gauge
US size 2 2.75 mm circular 16”/40 cm for neck, straight or circular 16”/40 cm or longer, and one set of double pointed needles (dpns) or size needed to obtain gauge
Notions: Markers, stitch holders, tapestry needle, waste yarn or spare needle
Abbreviations
BOR: Beginning of Round
DS: To form double st when working German Short Rows, slip next st purlwise, wyif, and pull yarn up snugly. Wrap yarn behind right needle tip and work next st, then continue in pattern across row.
Three-Needle Bind Off: With left front and back shoulder sts on separate needles with needle tips pointing in the same direction when the RS are held together, make sure you have the same number of sts on each needle.
- Insert 3rd needle knitwise into the first st on the front needle, then into the first st on the second needle. Wrap yarn around needle as if to knit and pull through a loop.
- Rep step 1 once more. There are now 2 sts on the right needle.
- Pass first st over second st on right needle. 1 st bound off.
- Rep steps 1 and 3 until 1 st rem on right needle. Cut yarn, leaving a 6”/15 cm tail and pull it through the last st.
Rep for right shoulder.
Italian Tubular Cast On for Ribbing (with set up rows) https://www.donnaestin.com/learn
Tubular Bind Off Suzanne Bryan shows how to finish off 1×1 Rib with Tubular Bind Off in the round. https://www.donnaestin.com/learn
Pattern Notes
Front and back high-low hems are worked flat from the bottom up then joined and body is worked in the round to the armhole divide. Front and back are each worked flat, shoulders are shaped with German Short Rows, then joined with three-needle bind off. Stitches are picked up around the armholes for drop-shoulder sleeves and worked in the round from the top down.
Do not carry color not in use up the side. Cut yarn and weave in ends in their color group.
When changing colors, drop the color you’ve been using and pick up the next color from underneath.
To minimize the jog at the BOR, when changing colors, knit next round in new color as normal, then begin the following round by lifting stitch below first st on left needle onto needle, then knit it tog with the first st.
Stitch Patterns
1×1 Rib
Row 1: Sl 1 knitwise, *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.
Rep Row 1 for patt.
Stripe Patt
Rnds 1-10: With CC, knit.
Rnds 11-20: With MC, knit.
Rep Rnds 1-20 for patt.
Pattern
Back Hem
With smaller needles and MC, using a tubular cast on, CO 142 (158, 172, 188, 202) (218, 232, 248) sts. Slipping the first st of every row knitwise, work in 1×1 Rib for 2.5”/6 cm, ending with a RS row.
Dec Row (WS): With larger circular needles, p2 (8, 8, 9, 9) (10, 10, 11), *p2tog, p5; rep from * to last 7 (3, 3, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6) sts, purl to end. (123 (137, 149, 163, 175) (189, 201, 215) sts). Set aside and leave yarn attached.
Front Hem
With smaller needles and a new ball of yarn, work same as back until 1×1 Rib measures 1.5”/4 cm, ending with a RS row.
Dec Row (WS): With larger circular needles, p7 (8, 8, 9, 9) (10, 10, 11), *p2tog, p5; rep from * to last 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6) sts, purl to end. (123 (137, 149, 163, 175) (189, 201, 215) sts). Set aside and leave yarn attached.
Join Front and Back
With Back sts on larger needles, RS facing, and using MC attached, knit to end, join needles with front sts with RS facing, continue with working yarn and knit to end, pm, careful not to twist, join in the rnd. (246 (274, 298, 326, 350) (378, 402, 430) sts.)
Begin Stripes
Next Rnd: (See notes about minimizing jog at BOR). Work in St st with CC for 10 rnds then with MC for 10 rnds. Continue alternating between MC and CC as est until piece measures about 12 (12, 12, 12, 13) (13, 13, 13)”/30 (30, 30, 30, 32.5) (32.5, 32.5, 32.5) cm from front CO edge or to desired length, ending with last rnd of CC. End working in the rnd.
NOTE – Adjust needle size if needed to maintain gauge when changing from working in the round to working flat.
Shape Armholes
NOTE – Maintain Stripe patt throughout.
Next Row (RS): Remove BOR m, with MC insert needle between first and second sts and Cable CO 1 st, Cable CO 7 more sts. 8 sts inc’d. K131 (145, 157, 171, 183) (197, 209, 223) sts, place rem 123 (137, 148, 163, 175) (189, 201, 215) sts for front on waste yarn or spare needle, turn.
Back
Next Row (WS): Cable CO 8 sts, purl to end. (139 (153, 165, 179, 191) (205, 217, 231) sts)
Cont. working flat, back and forth in rows in patt until armhole measures about 4.5 (4.5, 4.5, 4.5, 4.5) (6.75, 6.75, 6.75)”/11 (11, 11, 11, 11) (17, 17, 17) cm, ending with last row of CC. End Stripes.
With MC, cont to work in St st until armhole measures 6.75 (7, 7.75, 8.25, 8.5) (9.75, 10.5, 11)”/17 (18, 19.5, 20.5, 21.5) (24.5, 26.5, 28) cm ending with a WS row.
Shape Shoulders with German Short Rows
Short Row 1 (RS): K44 (50, 55, 61, 66) (72, 77, 84), pm, k51 (53, 55, 57, 59) (61, 63, 63) sts for back neck, pm, knit last 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) (6, 6, 6) sts, turn.
Short Row 2 (WS): Form DS, purl to last 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) (6, 6, 6) sts, turn.
Short Row 3 (RS): Form DS, knit to 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) (6, 7, 8) sts before DS, turn.
Short Row 4 (WS): Form DS, purl to 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) (6, 7, 8) sts before DS, turn.
Rep Short Rows 3-4 five more times.
Shape Neck & Shoulders
Short Row 15 (RS): Form DS, knit to m, rm, join 2nd ball of yarn and BO all back neck sts between markers, rm, knit to 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) (6, 7, 8) sts before DS, turn. (44 (50, 55, 61, 66) (72, 77, 84) sts rem each shoulder.) Working both shoulders at the same time with two balls of yarn, continue to shape shoulders with short rows.
Short Row 16 (WS): Form DS, purl to neck opening; with next ball purl to 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) (6, 7, 8) sts before DS, turn.
Short Row 17 (RS): Form DS, knit to neck opening; with next ball knit to 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) (6, 7, 8) sts before DS, turn.
Short Row 18 (WS): Form DS, purl to neck opening; with next ball purl to 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) (6, 7, 8) sts before DS, turn.
Next Row (RS): Form DS, knit to neck opening; with next ball knit to end, treating each DS as 1 st.
Next Row (WS): Purl to neck opening; with next ball purl to end, treating each DS as 1 st. Place all sts on a holder.
Front
Return held sts to larger needles with RS facing. Remove waste yarn. With MC, Cable CO 8 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows and maintain stripe patt. (139 (153, 165, 179, 191) (205, 217, 231) sts.) Work as for back until armhole measures 5.5 (6, 6.5, 7, 7.25) (8.5, 9.25, 9.75)”/14 (15, 16, 17.5, 18) (21, 23, 24.5) cm, ending with a WS row.
Shape Neck
Next Row (RS): K57 (63, 69, 75, 81) (87, 93, 100), join 2nd ball of yarn and BO center 25 (27, 27, 29, 29) (31, 31, 31) sts, knit to end. (57 (63, 69, 75, 81) (87, 93, 100) sts rem each shoulder.) Working both shoulders at the same time with two balls of yarn, continue to shape neck.
Next Row (WS): Purl to neck opening; with next ball purl to end.
Next Row (RS): Knit to neck opening; with next ball BO 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) (7, 7, 7) sts, knit to end.
Next Row (WS): Purl to neck opening, with next ball BO 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) (7, 7, 7) sts, purl to end. (51 (57, 63, 69, 74) (80, 86, 93) sts per shoulder.)
Working as est, BO 5 sts at the beg of each neck edge once, then 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4) sts at the beg of each neck edge once. (44 (50, 55, 61, 66) (72, 77, 84) sts rem each shoulder.) Work even if needed until armhole measures 6.75 (7, 7.75, 8.25, 8.5) (9.75, 10.5, 11)”/17 (18, 19.5, 20.5, 21.5) (24.5, 26.5, 28) cm ending with a WS row.
Shape Shoulders with German Short Rows
Short Row 1 (RS): Knit to neck; knit to last 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) (6, 6, 6) sts, turn.
Short Row 2 (WS): Form DS, purl to neck, purl to last 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) (6, 6, 6) sts, turn.
Short Row 3 (RS): Form DS, knit neck; knit to 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) (6, 7, 8) sts before DS, turn.
Short Row 4 (WS): Form DS, purl neck; purl to 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) (6, 7, 8) sts before DS, turn.
Rep Short Rows 3-4 seven more times.
Next Row (RS): Knit to neck opening; knit to end, treating each DS as 1 st.
Next Row (WS): Purl to neck opening; purl to end, treating each DS as 1 st.
Return left back shoulder sts to separate needles with needle tips pointing in the same direction as front when the RS are held together. Make sure you have the same number of sts on each needle. With 3rd needle, BO all sts using Three-Needle Bind Off. Rep for right shoulder.
Seam 8-st extension at base of each armhole.
Right Sleeve
With larger dpns, RS facing and MC, begin at center of underarm and pick up and knit 84 (90, 98, 104, 108) (124, 134, 142) sts evenly around armhole, pm, join in the rnd. Knit 9 rnds. Begin Stripe patt with next rnd.
Dec Rnd: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts dec’d.
Rep Dec Rnd every 12 (9, 7, 6, 5) (4, 3, 3) rnds 10 (13, 16, 19, 21) (25, 30, 31) times and AT THE SAME TIME, continue stripe patt, alternating 10 rnds of CC with 10 rnds of MC until sleeve measures about 14 (14, 14, 14, 14) (14, 12, 12)”/35 (35, 35, 35, 35) (35, 30, 30) cm ending with last rnd of CC. (62 (62, 64, 64, 64) (72, 72, 78) sts)
With MC, cont to work until sleeve measures 16 (15.75, 15.75, 15.5, 14.75) (14.5, 14, 13.5)”/40 (39.5, 39.5, 39, 37) (36, 35, 34) cm, or 1”/2.5 cm shorter than desired length,
Next Rnd: Change to smaller needles and work in 1×1 Rib for 1”/2.5 cm. BO all sts using Tubular BO.
Left Sleeve
Work as for Right Sleeve.
Finishing
Weave in ends. Block to measurements in schematic.
Neck
With smaller 16”/40 cm needles, MC, and RS facing, begin at left shoulder seam and pick up and knit 130 (134, 136, 140, 144) (146, 150, 152) sts evenly around neck, pm, join in the round. Work in 1×1 Rib for 1”/2.5 cm. BO all sts using a tubular BO. Weave in ends
Measurements for schematic
A: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54) (58, 62, 66)”/95 (105, 115, 125, 135) (145, 155, 165) cm
B: 21 (23.25, 25, 27.25, 29) (31.25, 33, 35.25)”/52.5 (58, 62.5, 68, 72.5) (78, 82.5, 88) cm
C: 8 (8.25, 8.5, 8.75, 9) (9.5, 9.75, 9.75)”/20 (20.5, 21, 22, 22.5) (24, 24.5, 24.5) cm
D: 12 (12, 12, 12, 13) (13, 13, 13)”/30 (30, 30, 30, 32.5) (32.5, 32.5, 32.5) cm
E: 1”/2.5 cm
F: 13 (13.75, 15, 16, 16.5) (19, 20.5, 21.75)”/32.5 (34.5, 37.5, 40, 41.5) (47.5, 51.5, 54.5) cm
G: 9.5 (9.5, 9.75, 9.75, 9.75) (11, 11, 12)”/24 (24, 24.5, 24.5, 24.5) (27.5, 27.5, 30) cm
H: 17 (16.75, 16.75, 16.5, 15.75) (15.5, 15, 14.5)”/42.5 (42, 42, 41, 39.5) (39, 37.5, 36) cm
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