Lillemor Sweater

Time: 3-4 weeks.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Finished Bust Size 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70)”/96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137, 147.5, 157.5, 167.5, 178) cm to fit bust 28 (32, 36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60)”/96.5 (81, 91.5, 101.5, 112, 122, 132, 142, 152.5) cm

10”/25.5 cm positive ease recommended.

Shown in size 42”/117 cm

Gauge: 25 sts and 44 rows/rnds = 4” [10cm] in Pebble Rib st, stretched, after wet blocking.

33 sts and 44 rows/rnds = 4” [10cm] in Pebble Rib st, unstretched, after wet blocking.

Materials

Yarn: Ancient Arts Yarn Merino Silk Fingering (75% superwash extra fine Merino, 25% cultivate silk; 437 yards [400 meters]/3.5 oz [100 grams]): Pieces of Eight (4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 7) hanks).

Needles: US 2 (2.75 mm) 24-32”/60-80 cm circular and one set of double pointed needles (dpn) 8”/20cm length or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions: Markers, removable stitch marker or waste yarn, tapestry needle

Abbreviations

m         Marker

kfb       K into the front, then back of the next st.

pfb       Purl into the front, then back of the next st.

rm       Remove marker

sm       Slip marker

ssp      Sl 1 st kwise, sl next st kwise, return sts to left needle. With right needle tip

behind work, insert from left to right through the back of both sts and purl these 2 tog tbl.

Special Stitches

Pebble Rib Stitch worked in the rnd (multiple of 4 sts)

Rnd 1: *K3, p1; rep from * to end.

Rnd 2: *P1, k1, p2; rep from * to end.

Rep Rnds 1-2 for pattern.

Pebble Rib Stitch worked flat (multiple of 4 sts)

Row 1 (RS): *K3, p1; rep from * to end.

Row 2 (WS): *K2, p1, k1; rep from * to end.

Rep Rows 1-2 for pattern.

Cable CO: Insert right needle from front to back bet last 2 sts on left needle. Wrap yarn around needle as if to k and pull through a fairly good-sized loop. Rotate the right needle clockwise, insert left needle into loop on right needle from left to right. Remove right needle. Snug up the yarn so st is uniform in size with other sts. Rep until required number of sts are CO.

Pattern Notes

Garment is worked from cuff to cuff, beg with the left sleeve and worked in the rnd. Stitches are cast on at end of the sleeve then worked flat across the body. Stitches are bound off at the end of the body and the right sleeve is worked in the round to the cuff. Stitches are picked up around bottom of garment and worked in the round to desired length.

If you prefer working with shorter dpns, you can use a 5”/13 cm dpn for most of the sleeve then switch to 8”/20 cm or use magic loop on a circular needles.

The stitch pattern is stretched while blocking for the bodice and upper arms. The cuffs and bottom section are allowed to lie in their natural state during blocking. Please block to the measurements given in the schematic.

For the sideways portion of the body, stitch gauge determines lengths and row gauge determines widths.

Pattern

Left Sleeve

With dpn or needle preferred for small circumferences, CO 64 (64, 68, 68, 72, 72, 72, 72, 72) sts. Distribute sts evenly over three needles, pm, join in the rnd.

Work in Pebble Rib Stitch in the rnd until cuff measures 3 (3, 3, 3, 2.5, 2.5, 2, 2, 2)”/7.5 (7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 6.5, 6.5, 5, 5, 5) cm, ending with Rnd 2.

Inc Rnd: Kfb (or pfb depending on st), work in pattern to last st, kfb (or pfb). (2 sts increased)

NOTE – you may want to use markers to separate the increased sts from the CO sts to help maintain pattern.

Rep Inc Rnd every 12 (12, 12, 9, 8, 6, 5, 4, 4) rnds 5 (5, 5, 9, 11, 17, 23, 27, 27) times, integrating increased sts into pattern. (76 (76, 80, 88, 96, 108, 120, 128, 128) sts)

Place a removable stitch marker or tie a piece of waste yarn onto the last stitch of this rnd and leave in place until the next sleeve is worked.

Work even until sleeve measures 18.5 (18, 18, 18, 18, 17, 17, 16, 15)”/47 (46, 46, 46, 46, 43, 43, 40.5, 38) cm, ending with Rnd 2.

Add extension for body

NOTE – Switch to longer dpn or work magic loop with circular needles. Working flat, read all odd numbered rows of chart from right to left and all even numbered rows from left to right.

Next Row (RS): Rm, Cable CO 33 (33, 37, 37, 37, 41, 41, 45, 45) sts; k1 (selvedge), work Row 1 of Pebble Rib Stitch across newly cast on 32 (32, 36, 36, 36, 40, 40, 44, 44) sts, cont in pattern to end. (109 (109, 117, 125, 133, 149, 161, 173, 173) sts)

NOTE – you may wish to pm between the selvedge st on each end and the rest of the pattern sts.

Next Row (WS): Cable CO 33 (33, 37, 37, 37, 41, 41, 45, 45) sts; p1 (selvedge), work Row 2 of Pebble Rib Stitch to last st reading Rnd 2 of chart from left to right, p1. (142 (142, 154, 162, 170, 190, 202, 218, 218) sts)

NOTE – Once you’ve worked a few rows and the stitches around the sleeve underarm can be worked easily across one needle, change to circular needles.

Maintaining first and last st in St st for selvedges, work in pattern for 0 (10, 0, 6, 12, 0, 10, 0, 12) more rows.

Shape Left Shoulders

Next Row (RS): K1, work in pattern across next 69 (69, 75, 79, 83, 93, 99, 107, 107) sts, pfb, pm, pfb, work in pattern to last st, k1. (144 (144, 156, 164, 172, 192, 204, 220, 220) sts)

Next Row (WS): P1, work in pattern to 1 st before center m, k1, sm, k1, work in pattern to last st, p1.

Work 2 (2, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8, 8) rows even, working the st before and after the center m in Rev St st.

Inc Row (RS): K1, work in pattern to 1 st before marker, pfb (or kfb depending on st), sm, pfb (or kfb), work in pattern to last st, k1. (2 sts increased)

Rep Inc Row every 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10)th row 10 more times, integrating increased sts into pattern when possible. (166 (166, 178, 186, 194, 214, 226, 242, 242) sts)

Place a removable marker on the last st of the last row.

Work even until shoulder measures 5.25 (6, 7, 7.75, 8.75, 9.75, 10.75, 11.75, 12.75)”/13.5 (15.5, 18, 20, 22.5, 25, 27.5, 30, 32.5) cm from body extension. Make a note of the number of rows worked from removeable marker.

Shape Neck

Next Row (RS): K1, work in pattern across 74 (74, 80, 84, 88, 98, 104, 112, 112) sts, join 2nd ball, BO next 8 sts in pattern and rm as you go, ssk, work in pattern to last st, k1. (75 (75, 81, 85, 89, 99, 105, 113, 113) back sts; 82 (82, 88, 92, 96, 106, 112, 120, 120) front sts)

Working both sides at the same time, cont to shape front neck (left side) as follows:

Next Row (WS): P1, work in pattern to 3 sts before neck opening, ssp, p1; with next ball work in pattern to last st, p1. (81 (81, 87, 91, 95, 105, 111, 119, 119) front sts)

Dec Row (RS): K1, work in pattern to neck opening; with next ball k1, ssk, work in pattern to last st, k1. (1 front st decreased)

Dec Row (WS): P1, work in pattern to 3 sts before neck opening, ssp, p1; with next ball work in pattern to last st, p1. (1 front st decreased)

Rep last 2 Dec Rows 8 more times. (63 (63, 69, 73, 77, 87, 93, 101, 101) front sts)

Work even for 54 (56, 58, 62, 62, 62, 64, 64, 64) rows or 4.75 (5, 5.25, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.75, 5.75, 5.75)”/12 (13, 13.5, 14, 14, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 14.5) cm, ending with a WS row.

Inc Row (RS): K1, work in patt to neck opening; with next ball k1, kfb, work in pattern to last st, k1. (1 front st increased)

Inc Row (WS): P1, work in pattern to 3 sts before neck opening, kfb, p2; with next ball work in pattern to last st, p1. (1 front st increased)

Rep last 2 rows 8 more times. (81 (81, 87, 91, 95, 105, 111, 119, 119) front sts)

Next Row (RS): Rep Inc Row once more. (82 (82, 88, 92, 96, 106, 112, 120, 120) front sts)

Join Front and Back

Next Row (WS): P1, work in pattern to 3 sts before neck opening, kfb, p2, turn, Cable CO 8 sts, turn, cont with working yarn and work in pattern to last st, p1. Cut yarn not in use. (166 (166, 178, 186, 194, 214, 226, 242, 242) sts)

Refer to your notes and work the same number of rows from removeable marker to beg of neck divide on left shoulder.

Shape Right Shoulders

Next Row (RS): K1, work in pattern across 80 (80, 86, 90, 94, 104, 110, 118, 118) sts, p2tog, pm, p2tog, work in pattern to last st, k1. (164 (164, 176, 184, 192, 212, 224, 240, 240) sts)

Next Row (WS): P1, work in patt to last st, p1.

Work 2 (2, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8, 8) rows even in pattern, ending with a WS row and being mindful of the pattern break at the center marker.

Dec Row (RS): K1, work in pattern to 2 sts before m, p2tog, sm, p2tog, work in pattern to last st, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Rep Dec Row every 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10)th row 10 more times and rm on last row. (142 (142, 154, 162, 170, 190, 202, 218, 218) sts)

Work even in pattern for 1 (11, 1, 7, 13, 1, 11, 1, 13) rows, ending with a WS row.

Remove body extensions

Beg with a RS row, loosely BO 33 (33, 37, 37, 37, 41, 41, 45, 45) sts in pattern at the beg of the next 2 rows. (76 (76, 80, 88, 96, 108, 120, 128, 128) sts)

Right Sleeve

Switch to dpn, distribute sts evenly over 3 needles, pm, and join in the rnd. Maintain established pattern over sleeve sts, working in the rnd for the same number of rnds as the first sleeve bet the marked st and end of sleeve.

Dec Rnd: P2tog, work in pattern to last 2 sts, p2tog. (2 sts decreased)

Rep Dec Rnd every 12 (12, 12, 9, 8, 6, 5, 4, 4) rnds 5 (5, 5, 9, 11, 17, 23, 27, 27) times. (64 (64, 68, 68, 72, 72, 72, 72, 72) sts)

Work even until sleeve measures same as left sleeve. BO all sts pwise.

NOTE – you’ll want to block at this stage to the proper length before seaming the sides.

Wet block garment, stretch out to match measurements in schematic and pin in place until dry. Do not stretch out the sleeve cuffs, allow them to fall into their natural shape. Sew side seams.

Lower Body

With circular needles, beg at left seam, pick up and k312 (344, 380, 412, 444, 476, 512, 544, 576) sts evenly around hem of garment, pm, join in the rnd. Work in Pebble Rib Stitch for 11”/28 cm or to desired length. BO all sts in patt.

Finishing

Neck Edging

Beg at left shoulder, pick up and k132 (136, 138, 142, 142, 142, 142, 142, 142) sts evenly around neck, pm, join in the rnd.

Next Rnd: P.

Next Rnd: K.

Next Rnd: P.

BO all sts pwise.

Weave in ends. Block bottom portion to measurements in schematic.