Heading to the ice rink with your friends in style with a new knit jacket. “Dancing” ribs go up on sleeves and shoulders of this elegant, cozy jacket. The dense texture and the unusual shoulder design make this jacket a unique piece, while the deep collar, buttons and pockets add interest and versatility.
Skill Level: Intermediate
Size: Finished Bust Size approx. 32 (35¾, 39, 40, 42¼, 46, 47, 52¼)” to fit bust 30 (34, 36, 38, 40, 44, 46, 50)” and cross shoulder width 14¼ (14¾, 15, 15¼, 15½, 16, 16¼, 16¾)”
Approx. 2” positive ease recommended at bust.
Shown in size 34”
Gauge: 17 sts and 23 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after wet blocking; 19 sts and 24 rows = 4” [10 cm] in Supple Rib patt after wet blocking.
Materials
Yarn: Garnstudio Drops Alaska (100% Wool; 77 yards [70 meters]/50 grams): 37 Dark Blue, 13 (14, 16, 17, 19, 22, 24, 25) balls.
Yarn category: Medium (4)
Needles: US size 7 (4.5 mm): 24” / [60 cm] or longer circular for Body; US size 7 (4.5 mm): DPNs or 40” / [100 cm] circular for Sleeves.
Notions: 12 removable markers; waste yarn; tapestry needle; 2 stitches holders; three 1” buttons
Special Stitches
I-cord Bind-off: CO 3 sts with knitted CO method, (k2, k2tog tbl, sl 3 sts pwise from right-hand needle to left-hand needle), repeat until only 3 sts are left.
m3L: Insert LH needle from front to back under the bar between the sts and (k1, yo, k1) in the back loop.
m3R: Insert LH needle from back to front under the bar between the sts and (k1, yo, k1) in the front loop.
Supple Rib (worked flat)
Row 1: K1, *k1 leaving st on main needle, then purl the same st with the next st together, k1; rep from * to end.
Row 2: Purl.
Rep Rows 1-2 for patt.
Supple Rib (worked in the round)
Rnd 1: K1, *k1 leaving st on main needle, then purl the same st with the next st together, k1; rep from * around.
Rnd 2: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1-2 for patt.
Pattern Notes
The jacket is worked flat from the top down.
After CO, the collar is worked and then stitches are divided among Sleeves, Fronts, and Back central stripes, which will be worked in the same st pattern as sleeves.
Stitches are then increased for the Body along the raglan line, while increases for Sleeves are made on top of shoulders.
Sleeve sts are then moved to scrap yarn, additional sts are cast on at underarm and Body is worked in St st, keeping the st pattern in the central stripe down to the bottom edge at Front and Back, with minimal waist shaping.
Pockets are worked at the same time as Body and finished with back panels afterward.
Sleeves are worked in the round after moving sts from waste yarn and pick up additional sts at underarm.
Three buttons close the jacket at the bust.
Pattern
Note: Please read the whole instructions before starting.
Always slip first st of row, knitwise on RS and purlwise on WS.
With long tail CO Method, CO 93 (93, 93, 93, 102, 102, 102, 114) sts.
Starting with RS, knit 1 row, purl 1 row.
Start Collar
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, work Supple Rib patt to last st, k1.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, work Supple Rib patt to last st, p1.
Rep Rows 1-2 until piece meas 4” / [10 cm], ending with WS row.
Raglan Increase Section (Body)
Notes: For each size, you will first work a given number of rows with double increase at each side of Body and no increase at Shoulders. Then you will start increasing at Shoulders AT THE SAME TIME as Body. At the end, you will work only single increases for Body and no more increase at Shoulders. For sizes 44 (46, 50)” bust, add increases for Sleeves at the end of raglan line together with last increase for Body.
All Sizes
Row 1 (RS): Sl1, work next 15 (15, 15, 15, 18, 18, 18, 18) sts in Supple Rib patt, pm, work next 22 (22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 28) sts in Supple Rib patt, pm, work next 17 (17, 17, 17, 20, 20, 20, 20) sts in Supple Rib patt (starting and ending with k1 leaving st on main needle), pm, work 22 (22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 28) sts in Supple Rib patt, pm, work next 15 (15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 18) in Supple Rib patt (starting and ending with k1 leaving stitch on main needle), k1.
Row 2 and all WS rows: Sl1 purlwise, purl all sts.
Row 3 (RS): Work as established to m, sm, m1L, pm, work as establish to next m, sm, m1R, pm, work as established to m, sm, work as established to m, sm, m1L, pm, work as established to m, sm, m1R, pm, work as established to end – 4 sts inc’d; 97 (97, 97, 97, 106, 106, 106, 118) sts.
Row 5: Work as established to m, sm, k to 1 st before m, m1L, k1, m1L, sm, work as establish to m, sm, m1R, k1, m1R, k to m, sm, work as established to m, sm, k to 1 st before m, m1L, k1, m1L, sm, work as established to m, sm, m1R, k1, m1R, k to m, sm, work as established to end – 8 sts inc’d; 105 (105, 105, 105, 114, 114, 114, 126) sts.
Row 6: Rep Row 2.
Rep Rows 5-6, 2 (2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) more times – 121 (121, 113, 113, 122, 130, 130, 142) sts.
Body and Shoulder Increase Section
Sizes 30 (34)” only
Row 7 (RS): Work as established to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, work next 9 (9) sts in Supple Rib patt, m3L, pm, work next 4 sts in Supple Rib patt, pm, m3R, work next 9 (9) sts in Supple Rib patt as establish to m, sm, m1R, k to m, sm, work as established to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, work next 9 (9) sts in Supple Rib patt, m3L, pm, work next 4 sts in Supple Rib patter, pm, m3R , work next 9 (9) sts in Supple Rib patt to m, sm, m1L, work as established to m, sm, work as established to end – 16 sts inc’d; 137 (137) sts.
Row 8 (WS): Rep Row 2.
Row 9: Work as established to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, work as establish to m (sl Shoulder markers), sm, m1R, work as established to m, sm, work as established to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, work as established to m (sl Shoulder markers), sm, m1L, work as established to m, sm, work as established to end – 4 sts inc’d; 141 (141) sts.
Row 10: Rep Row 2.
Rep Rows 7-10, 3 (3) more times – 201 (201) sts.
Rep Rows 9-10, 8 (12) more times – 233 (249) sts.
Sizes 36 (38, 40, 44, 46, 50)” only
Row 7 (RS): Work as established to m, sm, k to 1 st before m, m1L, k1, m1L, sm, work next 9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 12) sts in Supple Rib patt, m3L, pm, work next 4 sts in Supple Rib patt, pm, m3R, work next 9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 12) sts in Supple Rib patt as establish to m, sm, m1R, k1, m1R, k to 1 st before m, sm, work as established to m, sm, k to 1 st before m, m1L, k1, m1L, sm, work next 9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 12) sts in Supple Rib patt, m3L, pm, work next 4 sts in Supple Rib patt, pm, m3R, work next 9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 12) sts in Supple Rib patt to m, sm, m1R, k1, m1R, work as established to end – 20 sts inc’d; 133 (133, 142, 150, 150, 162) sts.
Row 8 (WS): Rep Row 2.
Row 9: Work as established to m, sm, k to 1 st before m, m1L, k1, m1L, sm, work as establish to m (sl Shoulder markers), sm, m1R, k1, m1R, k to m, sm, work as established to m, sm, k to 1 st before m, m1L, k1, m1L, sm, work as established to m (sl Shoulder markers), sm, m1R, k1, m1R, work as established to end – 8 sts inc’d; 141 (141, 150, 158, 158, 170) sts.
Row 10: Rep Row 2.
Rep Rows 7-10, 0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2) more times – 141 (169, 178, 186, 186, 226) sts.
Rep Rows 9-10, 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 1) more times – 141 (169, 178, 186, 186, 234) sts.
Size 36” only
Row 11 (RS): Work as established to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, work in Supple Rib patt to m, m3L, sm, work next 4 sts in Supple Rib patt, sm, m3R, work in Supple Rib patt to m, sm, m1R, k to m, sm, work as established to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, work in Supple Rib patt to m, m3L, sm, work next 4 sts in Supple Rib patt, sm, m3R, work in Supple Rib patt to m, sm, m1L, work as established to m, sm, work as established to end – 16 sts inc’d; 157 sts.
Row 12 (WS): Rep Row 2.
Row 13: Work as established to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, work as establish to m (sl Shoulder markers), sm, m1R, work as established to m, sm, work as established to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, work as established to m (sl Shoulder markers), sm, m1L, work as established to m, sm, work as established to end – 4 sts inc’d; 161 sts.
Row 14: Rep Row 2.
Rep Rows 11-14, 3 more times – 221 sts.
Rep Rows 13-14, 12 more times – 269 sts.
Sizes 38 (40, 44, 46, 50)” only
Row 11 (RS): Work as established to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, work in Supple Rib patt to m, m3L, sm, work next 4 sts in Supple Rib patt, sm, m3R, work in Supple Rib patt to m, sm, m1R, k to m, sm, work as established to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, work in Supple Rib patt to m, m3L, sm, work next 4 sts in Supple Rib patt, sm, m3R, work in Supple Rib patt to m, sm, m1L, work as established to m, sm, work as established to end – 16 sts inc’d; 185 (194, 202, 202, 250) sts.
Row 12 (WS): Rep Row 2.
Row 13: Work as established to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, work as establish to m (sl Shoulder markers), sm, m1R, work as established to m, sm, work as established to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, work as established to m (sl shoulder markers), sm, m1L, work as established to m, sm, work as established to end – 4 sts inc’d; 189 (198, 206, 206, 254) sts.
Row 14: Rep Row 2.
Rep Rows 11-14, 2 (2, 2, 2, 1) more times – 229 (238, 246, 246, 274) sts.
Rep Rows 13-14, 12 (12, 13, 14, 14) more times – 277 (286, 298, 302, 330) sts.
Sizes 44 (46, 50)” only
Next Row (RS): Work as established to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, k1, m3L, work as establish to 1 st before next body m, m3R, k1, sm m1R, work as established to m, sm, work as established to m, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, k1, m3L, work as established to 1 st before next body m, m3R, k1, sm, m1L, work as established to m, sm, work as established to end – 16 sts inc’d; 314 (318, 346) sts.
Next Row (WS): Rep Row 2.
All Sizes
AT THE SAME TIME, work a Buttonhole Row after 8” from CO row, as follows:
Buttonhole Row (RS): Work the row as established to last 10 sts, wyif sl1, wyib sl1, BO1, wyif sl1, BO1, wyib sl1, BO1, pass the last st back on left needle, turn the work, CO 4 sts with backward loop method, sl1 from left needle to right needle, BO1, turn, k3, work as established to end.
Rep Buttonholes Row twice more after 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4.5, 4.5)” from the previous one.
Division of Body and Sleeves
Division Row (RS): Work as established to first sleeve m, *rm, move to waste yarn the following 46 (46, 46, 52, 52, 58, 58, 64) sts (remove markers), CO 5 (5, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 11) sts with backward loop method*, pm before and after 3 (3, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6) newly casted on sts, remove second sleeve m, work in pattern until 1 st before next sleeve m, repeat from * to * one more time, pm before and after 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 6) newly casted on sts, remove second sleeve m, work as established to the end.
Body
Note: Continue to work buttonholes when needed.
Row 1 (WS): Work as established, sm when coming across them.
Row 2 (RS): work as established, sm when coming across them.
Rep last 2 rows 4 (3, 3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 1) more times.
Work WS row once more.
Waist Shaping
Dec Row 1 (RS): Work as established to side m, *ssk, sm, k1, sm, k2tog, work as established to next side m; rep from * once more, work as established to end.
Row 2 (WS): Work as established, sm when coming across them.
Rep Dec Row 3 more times every 6 rows.
Next Row (WS): Work as established, sm when coming across them.
Next Row (RS): Work as established, sm when coming across them.
Rep last 2 rows twice more.
Hip Increases Section and Pockets
Row 1 (RS): Work as established to Front m, sm, move next 21 (24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24) sts to stitch holder, CO 21 (24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24) with I-Cord Method, pm, work as established to side m, m1L, sm, m1R, work as established to next side m, m1L, sm, m1R, work as established to 21 (24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24) sts before next Front m, pm, move next 21 (24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24) sts to stitch holder, CO 21 (24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24) with I-Cord Method, pm, work as established to end.
Row 2 (WS): Work as established, sm when coming across them.
Rep side increases 6 more times every 6 rows.
From here down, work Pockets sts (between m) in stitch pattern same as Front stripe.
Work Body as established until piece meas 15½ (15, 15, 14¾, 14¾, 14¼, 14, 14) from underarm, or desired length, ending with WS row.
Work I-Cord BO, starting from Front Left edge.
Sleeves
Move the 46 (46, 46, 52, 52, 58, 58, 64) sts from waste yarn to the working needles, pick up 5 (5, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 11) sts from underarm*, place 2 removable markers before and after 3 (3, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6) picked up st, join in the round. Beg of rnd will be marked by second m – 51 (51, 54, 60, 60, 66, 66, 75) sts.
Rnd 1: Work in established stitch patt around, sm when coming across them.
Rep Rnd 1 until Sleeve meas 6½”, ending with Rnd 1 of Supple Rib patt.
Dec Rnd 1: Sm, k2tog, work in established patt to 2 sts before m, remove marker, pm on working needle, sssk (double decrease) – 3 sts dec’d; 48 (48, 51, 57, 57, 63, 63, 72) sts.
Next Rnd: Work in established patt, sm when coming across them.
Work in established patt 14 (12, 12, 8, 8, 8, 6, 6) more rounds (if needed, remove m and place them back to allow you to work the Supple Rib patt).
Dec Rnd 2: Sm, k3tog, work in established patt to 1 st before m, remove marker, pm on working needle, ssk – 3 sts dec’d; 45 (45, 48, 54, 54, 60, 60, 69) sts.
Next Rnd: Work in pattern, sm when coming across them.
Alternating Dec Rnds 1 and 2, rep Dec Rnd 1 (1, 1, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) more times, every 16 (14, 14, 10, 10, 10, 8, 8) rnds – 42 (42, 45, 48, 45, 51, 48, 57) sts.
Work even in patt until Sleeve meas approx. 15” from underarm, or desired length.
BO with 3 sts I-Cord Bind Off.
Finishing
Pocket Lining
Move sts from stitch holder to working needles and work them in St st to the same length as Pocket Front panel.
To help with seaming, mark WS Front Panel edges passing scrap yarn in sts along the border. Seam Back and Front panels.
Sew on buttons. Block the cardigan.
wait I think I found it by bust size – as long as the hips are increased at the same time. Do I make it the next size up to account for the 2″ ease??
how can I calculate stitch counts & patterns for a size 3x (sz 24/26? Or do you have it available?
I have been looking for a Navy Blue Wool blazer for ages. None of them seemed right. But THIS!! Perfect! Can’t wait to get started.