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Adirondack Mountain Socks

Adirondack Mountain Socks

Take a journey through the mountains with this top-down sock that features a zig-zag cable reminiscent of hiking trails deep within the mountains. With simple cables, garter stitch, lace and a Fleegle heel, this design is easy, fun and doesn’t require picking up stitches to make its attractive heel!

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Woman’s Small (Medium, Large)

Shown in size Large

Gauge: 36 sts and 48 rows = 4” [10 cm]

Materials

Yarn:

Super Fine Weight Yarn The Plucky Knitter Plucky Feet (90% Merino, 10% Nylon; 425 yards / 115 grams):  Atticus, 1 skein.

Needles: US size 1 (2.25 mm): two 24” circular, or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions: Markers (optional); cable needle; tapestry needle

Pattern Notes

A round is the entire 64 (68, 72) sts around the sock and a row is 32 (34, 36) sts on one needle.

Needle #1 holds the instep sts and needle #2 holds the heel sts, which turn into the sole of the foot.

This pattern is mirrored. Two sets of charts are given for the left and right foot.

Pattern

CO 64 (68, 72) sts, divide evenly on 2 needles, join for working in the rnd, being careful not to twist.

Work Front Rib Chart (Rows 1-18) once on needle #1 and AT THE SAME TIME, work Back Rib Chart (Rows 1-18) once on needle #2.

Work Front Rib Set-Up Chart (Rows 1-8) once on needle #1 and AT THE SAME TIME, work Back Rib Set-Up Chart (Row 1-8) once on needle #2.

Work Chart A once on needle #1 and AT THE SAME TIME, work Chart B on needle #2.

Begin Gusset Increases

On needle #1, work Chart C (Rows 41-72) and AT THE SAME TIME, Chart D (Rows 41-71) on needle #2. On Row 71 of Chart D, place a marker to indicate the center of the row.

Notes: At the end of Chart D, needle #2 will hold 64 (66, 68) sts, 32 (34, 36) sts from original cast-on plus 32 new sts increased for gusset, which will become the heel and sole of the foot. Needle #1 will hold the instep stitches.

Turn Heel

On Needle #2, work in plain St st to 4 sts past center marker, ssk, k1, turn – 1 sts dec’d.

Sl1 st purlwise, p9, p2tog, p1, turn – 1 sts dec’d.

Sl1 st purlwise, k10, ssk, k1, turn – 1 sts dec’d.

Sl1 st purlwise, p11, p2tog, p1, turn – 1 sts dec’d.

Sl1 st purlwise, k12, ssk, k1, turn – 1 sts dec’d.

Cont in this manner, ending on a knit row:

64 stitch cast-on: Slip 1 st purlwise, k34, ssk (= 37 sts)

68 stitch cast-on: Slip 1 st purlwise, k34, ssk, k1 (= 39 sts)

72 stitch cast-on: Slip 1 st purlwise, k36, ssk (= 39 sts)

Note: There will be 1 (2, 1) unworked st(s) remaining on the right end of the needle. Close up that gap by decreasing those extra stitches on needle #2 when you resume working in the round.  Once you have decreased the gussets back to the original stitch count of 32 (34, 36), you could further decrease the sole stitches, if you prefer, for a better fit. Remember to rearrange the stitches so you have the same number of stitches on both needles before starting toe decreases.

Foot

Resume working in the round.

Next Rnd: On needle #1, work Row 73 of Chart E, and on needle #2, use k2tog to close the gap formed by any rem unworked sts from your heel turn, then work across the rest of the row.

Next Rnd: On needle #1, work Row 74 of Chart E, and on needle #2, knit all sts.
Next Rnd: On needle #1, work Row 75 of Chart E, and on needle #2, k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next Rnd: On needle #1, work Row 76 of Chart E, and on needle #2, knit all sts.

Cont Foot as est, working in St st on the bottom (decreasing every other row on both sides until you reach your desired number of sts), and Chart E on the top of the Foot.

Rep Chart E Rows 113-114 until Foot is approximately 2” or 2.5” shorter than desired length (check your gauge and estimate how many rows you’ll need for your desired foot length).

Decrease for Toe

Notes: Rearrange stitches, if necessary, to have the same number of stitches on each needle.

Rnd 1: On needle #1, k1, ssk, work in patt as est until 3 sts rem on needle, k2tog, k1, and on needle #2, k1, ssk, k until 3 sts rem on needle, k2tog, k1.
Rnds 2-4: Work in patt as est on needle #1, with St st on needle #2.
Rnd 5: On needle #1, k1, ssk, work in patt as est until 3 sts rem on needle, k2tog, k1, and on needle #2, k1, ssk, k until 3 sts rem on needle, k2tog, k1.
Rnds 6-8: Work in patt as est on needle #1, with St st on needle #2.
Rnd 9: On needle #1, k1, ssk, work in patt as est until 3 sts rem on needle, k2tog, k1, and on needle #2, k1, ssk, knit until 3 sts rem on needle, k2tog, k1.
Rnds 10-11: Work in patt as est on needle #1, with St st on needle #2.
Rnd 12: On needle #1, k1, ssk, work in patt as est until 3 sts rem on needle, k2tog, k1, on needle #2, k1, ssk, knit until 3 sts rem on needle, k2tog, k1.
Rnds 13-14: Work in patt as est on needle #1, with St st on needle #2.
Rnd 15: On needle #1, k1, ssk, work in patt as est until 3 sts rem on needle, k2tog, k1, on needle #2, k1, ssk, knit until 3 sts rem on needle, k2tog, k1.
Rnds 16: Work in patt as est on needle #1, with St st on needle #2.

Rep last 2 rnds, decreasing every other round until 14 or 15 sts rem on each needle.

Finishing

Leave a tail of at least 12”, cut yarn and close toe using a Kitchener stitch.

Weave in all ends.yarn ball


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