Theo Knit Jeans Jacket

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: 2 (4, 6, 8, 10)

Gauge: 25 sts and 30 rows with US size 3 needles = 4” [10 cm] in reverse St st using larger needles, after wet blocking

Materials

Yarn: Schachenmayr Catania Denim (100% Cotton; 137 yards [125 meters]/50 grams): 00152 Jeans (MC, 8 (8, 9, 9, 10) balls)

Schachenmayr Regia 4ply (75% Virgin Wool, 25% Polyamide; 459 yards [420 meters]/100 grams): 02070 Wood mélange (CC, 1 ball for each size).

Needles: US size 3 (3.25 mm) straight, US size 2 (2.75 mm) straight.

Notions: 2 kinds of stitch markers, stitch holders, tapestry needle, seven 0.5” buttons that fit with the denim style, sewing thread and sewing needle, row counter (optional).

Abbreviations

p2togtbl = slip one stitch as if to knit, slip next stitch as if to knit, slip both stitches back to the left-hand needle. Insert the right-hand needle through both loops from the left to the right side and from the back of the work towards the front. Pull the yarn through both loops to make a purl stitch.

yron = wrap working yarn around left-hand needle from front to back and turn work

2yo = double yarnover, after the first yarnover, wrap the yarn around your right-hand needle another time

Pattern Notes

The body is worked in one piece from the bottom up, then divided for the armholes.

The sleeves are worked flat as well. They need to be sewn into the armholes.

Pattern

Pocket Flaps (make 2 before starting the body part)

Using larger needles and MC, CO 19 (23, 25, 29, 33) sts.

Row 1: Using smaller needles, (k1, p1) to last st, k1. Mark the side of the work that faces you now as the RS.

Row 2: (P1, k1) to last 3 (3, 5, 5, 7) sts, yron.

Row 3: (K1, p1) to last 3 (3, 5, 5, 7) sts, yron.

Row 4: (P, k1) to last 5 (7, 7, 9, 9) sts including those that haven´t been worked in the previous row, yron.

Row 5: (K1, p1) to last 5 (7, 7, 9, 9) sts including those that haven´t been worked in the previous row, yron.

Row 6: *Work sts as they appear to next yarn wrap, sl wrap as if to knit, sl next st as if to knit, sl both sts back to left hand needle, p2togtbl; rep from * to end.

Row 7: *Work sts as they appear to next yarn wrap, k2tog; rep from * to end.

Put sts on holder.

Body

Use one kind of markers to mark the side seams and another one for the knit stitch ribs.

Ribbed Hem

Using larger needles and MC, CO 149 (157, 165, 189, 197) sts.

Set-up Row (WS): Using smaller needles, (k1, p1) 18 (19, 20, 23, 24) times, k1, pm for side seam, (k1, p1) 37 (39, 41, 47, 49) times, k1, pm for side seam, (k1, p1) 18 (19, 20, 23, 24) times, k1.

Work sts as they appear for further 5 (5, 9, 9, 9) rows, ending with a RS row.

Next Row (WS): Work 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) sts as they appear, p1, p2togtbl, work 3 sts as they appear, p2tog, p1, pm, work sts as they appear to m, sm, work 22 (22, 22, 26, 26) sts as they appear, p1, p2togtbl, pm, work 25 (29, 33, 37, 41) sts as they appear, p2tog, p1, pm, work sts as they appear to m, sm, work 20 (20, 20, 24, 24) sts as they appear, p1, p2togtbl, work 3 sts as they appear, p2tog, p1, pm, work sts as they appear to end. (143 (151, 159, 183, 191) sts)

Reset row counter.

Knit Ribs Spreading Pattern

Row 1 (RS): Using larger needles, p to m, k2, p3, k2, p to side seam marker, sm, p to m, k2, p to m, k2, p to side seam marker, sm, p to m, k2, p3, k2, p to end.

Rows 2-10: Work sts as they appear.

Row 11: P1, p2tog, p to m, sm, k2, m1 p-st, p to next k sts, m1 p-st, k2, p to 2 sts before side seam marker, p2togtbl, sm, p2tog, p to next k sts, k2, m1 p-st, p to next k sts, m1 p-st  k2, p to 2 sts before side seam marker, p2tog, sm, p2togtbl, p to next k st, k2, m1 p-st, p to next k sts, m1 p-st, k2, p to last 3 sts, p2togtbl, p1.

Rows 12-20: Work sts as they appear.

Rep Rows 11-20 further 2 (3, 3, 5, 6) times, ending with WS Row 40 (50, 50, 70, 80).

Next Row (RS): P1, p2tog, p to m, sm, k2, m1 p-st, p to next k sts, m1 p-st, k2, p to 2 sts before side seam marker, p2togtbl, sm, p2tog, p to next k sts, k2, m1 p-st, p to next k sts, m1 p-st  k2, p to 2 sts before side seam marker, p2tog, sm, p2togtbl, p to next k st, k2, m1 p-st, p to next k sts, m1 p-st, k2, p to last 3 sts, p2togtbl, p1.

Work sts as they appear over further 6 (6, 12, 8, 14) rows, ending with RS Row 47 (57, 63, 79, 95).

AT THE SAME TIME, start working on the sleeve openings, beg in:

Row 35 (43, 49, 61, 75) (RS): *Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to 3 (2, 2, 2, 1) sts before side seam marker, BO 6 (4, 4, 4, 2) sts while removing side seam marker; rep from * and finish row according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern. You´ll end up with 32 (35, 37, 43, 46) live sts, a BO, further 67 (73, 77, 89, 95) live sts, a BO and further 32 (35, 37, 43, 46) live sts on your needles, of which the last 32 (35, 37, 43, 46) will form the front part over the wearer´s left shoulder. Move your row counter to that section if necessary, without setting it back.

Left Front Shoulder

Next Row (WS): Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to last 3 sts before BO, k2tog, k1. (31 (34, 36, 42, 45) sts)

Next Row: P1, p2togtbl, work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to end. (30 (33, 35, 41, 44) sts)

Size 2 (-, -, -, -) only

Rep last 2 rows once more. (28 sts)

Sizes 2 (-, -, -, 10) only

Next Row (WS): Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to last 3 sts before BO, k2tog, k1. (27 (-, -, -, 43) sts)

Next Row: Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern.

Rep last 2 rows further 1 (-, -, -, 0) time. (26 (-, -, -, 43) sts)

Work further 3 rows according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern, ending with a RS row.

Next Row: P1, p2togtbl, work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to end. (25 (-, -, -, 42) sts)

Sizes – (4, 6, 8, -) only

Next Row (WS): Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to last 3 sts before BO, k2tog, k1. (- (32, 34, 40, -) sts)

Next Row (RS): Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to end.

Next Row: Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to last 3 sts bef BO, k2tog, k1. (- (31, 33, 39, -) sts)

Rep last 2 rows further – (1, 0, 0, -) time. (- (30, 33, 39, -) sts)

Work further 3 rows according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern, ending with a WS row.

Next Row: Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to last 3 sts before BO, k2tog, k1. (- (29, 32, 38, -) sts)

All Sizes

Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern over further 5 (8, 10, 12, 15) rows, ending with WS Row 52 (62, 68, 82, 98).

Pocket Flaps (ribbed saddle part and front neck opening)

Next Row (RS): (P1, k1) 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) time(s), p1, hold Pocket Flap in front of work with its front facing you, (k first st of pocket flap and next st of shoulder part together, p next st of shoulder part and next st of pocket flap together) to last st of pocket flat, k first st of pocket flap and next st of shoulder part together, (p1, k1) to last 1 (1, 2, 2, 1) sts, p1, k0 (0, 1, 1, 0).

Work sts as they appear over further 14 (16, 18, 20, 24) rows, ending with RS row 67 (79, 87, 103, 123).

Next Row: BO 5 (5, 7, 7, 7) sts in pattern, work sts as they appear to end. (20 (24, 25, 31, 36) sts)

Next Row: Work sts as they appear to last 2 sts, k2tog. (19 (23, 24, 30, 35) sts)

Next Row: BO 2 (4, 3, 4, 5) sts in pattern, work sts as they appear to end. (17 (19, 21, 26, 30) sts)

Next Row: Work sts as they appear to last 2 sts, k2tog. (16 (18, 20, 25, 29) sts)

Next Row: P2togtbl, work sts as they appear to end. (15 (17, 19, 24, 28) sts)

Rep last 2 rows further 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) time(s). (13 (15, 17, 22, 24) sts)

Sizes – (4, 6, 8, -) only

Next Row: Work sts as they appear to last 2 sts, k2tog. (- (14, 16, 21, -) sts)

Work sts as they appear over further 3 (2, 2, 3, 2) rows.

BO sts in patt.

All Sizes

Right Front Shoulder

While leaving the 67 (73, 77, 89, 95) live sts of the back part on hold, attach working yarn at beg of first BO in Row 35 (43, 49, 61, 75). Reset your row counter to 35 (43, 49, 61, 75).

Next Row (WS): K1, k2togtbl, work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to end. (31 (34, 36, 42, 45) sts)

Next Row: Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. (30 (33, 35, 41, 44) sts)

Size 2 (-, -, -, -) only

Rep last 2 rows once more. (28 sts)

Sizes 2 (-, -, -, 10) only

Next Row (WS): K1, k2togtbl, work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to end. (27 (-, -, -, 43) sts)

Next Row: Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern.

Rep last 2 rows further 1 (-, -, -, 0) time. (26 (-, -, -, 43) sts)

Work further 3 rows according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern, ending with a RS row.

Next Row: Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. (Ending with Row 47 (-, -, -, 83), 25 (-, -, -, 42) sts)

Sizes – (4, 6, 8, -) only

K1, k2togtbl, work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to end. (- (32, 34, 40, -) sts)

Next Row (RS): Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to end.

Next Row: K1, k2togtbl, work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to end. (- (31, 33, 39, -) sts)

Rep last 2 rows further – (1, 0, 0, -) time. (- (30, 33, 39, -) sts)

Work further 3 rows according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern, ending with a WS row.

Next Row: Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. (Ending with Row – (54, 58, 70, -), – (29, 32, 38, -) sts)

All Sizes

Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern over further 5 (8, 10, 12, 15) rows, ending with WS Row 52 (62, 68, 82, 98).

Pocket flaps (ribbed saddle part and front neck opening)

Next Row (RS): K0 (0, 1, 1, 0), (p1, k1) 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) time(s), p1, hold Pocket Flap in front of work with its front facing you, (k first st of Pocket Flap and next st of shoulder part together, p next st of shoulder part and next st of Pocket Flap together) to last st of Pocket Flat, k first st of Pocket Flap and next st of shoulder part together, (p1, k1) to last st, k1.

Work sts as they appear over further 15 (17, 19, 21, 25) rows, ending with WS Row 68 (80, 88, 104, 124).

Next Row (RS): BO 5 (5, 7, 7, 7) sts in patt, work sts as they appear to end. (20 (24, 25, 31, 36) sts)

Next Row: Work sts as they appear to last 2 sts, k2togtbl. (19 (23, 24, 30, 35) sts)

Next Row: BO 2 (4, 3, 4, 5) sts in patt, work sts as they appear to end. (17 (19, 21, 26, 30) sts)

Next Row: Work sts as they appear to last 2 sts, k2togtbl. (16 (18, 20, 25, 29) sts)

Next Row: P2tog, work sts as they appear to end. (15 (17, 19, 24, 28) sts)

Rep last 2 rows further 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) time(s). (13 (15, 17, 22, 24) sts)

Back Part

The Back Part is worked over the rem 67 (73, 77, 89, 95) live sts. Attach working yarn to beg of second BO made in Row 35 (43, 49, 61, 75) and reset your row counter to 35 (43, 49, 61, 75).

Next Row (WS): K1, k2togtbl, work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 65 (71, 75, 87, 93) sts

Next Row: P1, p2togtbl, work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. (63 (69, 73, 85, 91) sts)

Size 2 (-, -, -, -) only

Rep last 2 rows once more. (59 sts)

Sizes – (4, 6, 8, -) only

Rep WS row from last 2 rows once more. (- (67, 71, 83, -) sts)

Next Row (RS): Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to end.

Next Row: K1, k2togtbl, work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (- (65, 69, 81, -) sts)

Rep last 2 rows further – (1, 0, 0, -) time. (- (63, -, -, -) sts)

Work further 3 rows according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern, ending with a WS row.

Next row: P1, p2togtbl, work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. (- (61, 67, 79, -) sts)

Sizes 2 (-, -, -, 10) only

Next Row (WS): K1, k2togtbl, work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (57 (-, -, -, 89) sts)

Next Row: Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern.

Rep last 2 rows further 1 (-, -, -, 0) time. (55 (-, -, -, 89) sts)

Work further 3 rows according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern, ending with a RS row.

Next Row (WS): P1, p2togtbl, work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1. (53 (-, -, -, 87) sts)

All Sizes

Work according to Knit Rib Spreading Pattern over further 5 (8, 10, 12, 15) rows, ending with WS Row 52 (62, 68, 82, 98).

Ribbed Saddle Part and Back Neck Opening

Next Row (RS): P0 (0, 1, 1, 0), (k1, p1) to last 3 sts before knit rib in back part, k1, p2tog, k1, m1 p-st, k1, (p1, k1) to last st before knit rib in back part, p1, k1, m1p-wise, k1, p2togtbl, k1, (p1, k1) to last 0 (0, 1, 1, 0) sts, p0 (0, 1, 1, 0).

Work sts as they appear over further 19 (21, 23, 25, 29) rows, ending with WS Row 72 (84, 92, 108, 128).

Back Neck Opening

Row 73 (85, 93, 109, 129) (RS): Work 19 (22, 25, 30, 43) sts as they appear, BO 15 (17, 17, 19, 21) sts, work sts as they appear to end. (19 (22, 25, 30, 34) live sts on either side of BO)

Next Row: Work sts as they appear to last 2 sts before BO, k2tog. (18 (21, 24, 29, 33) sts)

Next Row: BO 5 (6, 7, 7, 9) sts, work sts as they appear to end. (13 (15, 16, 22, 24) sts)

Next 2 Rows: Work sts as they appear to end.

BO all sts in patt.

Attach yarn to beg of central BO made in Row 73 (85, 93, 109, 129).

Next Row: BO 6 (7, 8, 8, 10) sts, work sts as they appear to end. (13 (15, 16, 22, 24) sts)

Next 2 Rows: Work sts as they appear to end.

BO all sts in patt.

Ribbed Collar

Attach working yarn to beg of BO for Neck Opening at the right-hand front shoulder part. Using smaller needles, pick up and k14 (17, 18, 19, 21) sts up to the right-handed shoulder seam, pick up and k29 (33, 35, 37, 43) sts up to the left-handed shoulder seam, pick up and k14 (17, 18, 19, 21) sts to the edge of the left-handed front shoulder. (57 (67, 71, 75, 85) sts)

Next Row: (K1, p1) to last st, k1.

Next Row: (P1, k1) to last st, p1.

Rep last 2 rows further 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) times.

BO all sts loosely in patt.

Button Bands

Attach yarn to the neck opening edge of the left-handed front shoulder.

Using smaller needles and working from the outside of the garment, pick up and knit from the first row, (omit one row, pick up and k1 from the next 3 rows) to the last 0 (1, 0, 0, 0) sts, pick up and knit from the last row 0 (1, 0, 0, 0) time. (52 (62, 67, 79, 94) sts)

Row 1: (P1, k1) to last (0, 1, 1, 0) st, k0 (0, 1, 1, 0).

Row 2: work sts as they appear to end.

Rep last 2 rows further 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) times.

BO all sts in patt.

Attach yarn to the low edge of the right-hand side front part. Using smaller needles and working from the outside of the garment, omit the first row, (pu and k1 from the next 3 rows, omit the next row) to last 0 (1, 0, 0, 0) rows. (52 (62, 67, 79, 94) sts)

Row 1 (WS): K0 (0, 1, 1, 0), (p1, k1) to last st.

Row 2: Work sts as they appear to end.

Sizes 2 (4, -, 8, 10) only

Next row: work 4 (4, -, 5, 4) sts as they appear, *k2tog, 2yo, work 9 (11, -, 15, 19) sts as they appear, 2yo, k2togtbl, work 9 (11, -, 15, 19) sts as they appear; rep from * to last 4 (6, -, 6, 6) sts, k2tog, 2yo, work 2 (4, -, 4, 4) sts as they appear.

Size 6 only

Next Row: work – (-, 5, -, -) sts as they appear, *k2tog, 2yo, work – (-, 12, -, -) sts as they appear; rep from * to last – (-, 6, -, -) sts, k2tog, 2yo, work – (-, 4, -, -) sts as they appear.

All Sizes

Next Row: work sts as they appear to first 2yo, *let 1 wrap drop but sl the other one, yo, work sts as they appear to next 2yo; rep from * to last 4 (4, 3, 5, 4) sts, work 4 (4, 3, 5, 4) sts as they appear.

Next Row: Work 4 (4, 3, 5, 4) sts as they appear, p1 through both wraps on your lh needle, work 11 (13, 15, 17, 21) sts as they appear, p1 through both wraps an your lh needle, work 13 (15, 17, 19, 23) sts as they appear; rep from * once more, work 3 (5, 3, 5, 5) sts as they appear.

Next Row: Work sts as they appear.

Rep last row 0 (0, 0, 2, 2) more time(s).

BO all sts in patt.

Stitchwork

Using CC, measure the length of yarn by going 4.5 times along the line you want to embroider. Those lines are shown in the schematic as red lines.

Using a tapestry needle, attach yarn to the lower right edge of the line you want to work on. Make a single, straight st to the left underneath the fabric and let the needle come out in the middle of the next st to the lh side from your point of attachment. Let the needle go down through the fabric in the middle of the st where you attached your thread in the first way.

*Make a straight st to the left underneath the fabric and let the needle come out in the middle of the next but one st. Make a straight st on top of the fabric to the rh side, catch the thread of the former top st coming from the upside down and insert the needle in the middle of the st where the former st came out. Rep from * until you reach the lower left corner of the area you want to embroider.

*Make a single straight st underneath the fabric that comes out in the middle of the st right above the st where your last top st came out. Make a straight st on top of the fabric going downwards, catch the thread of the former top st from the right towards the left-hand side and insert the needle into the middle of the st where the former top st came out. Rep from * until you reach the upper left corner of the area you want to embroider.

Make a single straight st underneath the fabric that comes out in the middle of the next st to the rh side of the st where your last top st came out. Make a straight st to the lh side, catch the thread of the former top st from the right towards the lh side and insert the needle in the middle of the st where that former top st came out. *Make a straight st to the rh side underneath the fabric and let the needle come out in the middle of the next but one st that sits to the rh side of the st where your last top st came out, catch the thread of the former st coming up from below and insert the needle in the middle of the st of whom the former top st came out. Rep from * until you reach the upper right corner of the area you want to embroider.

*Make a single straight st underneath the fabric that comes out in the middle of the st right below the st where your last top st went in. Make a straight st on top of the fabric going upwards, catch the thread of the former top st from the left towards the right-hand side and insert the needle into the middle of the st where the former top st went in. Rep from * until you reach the lower right corner of the area you want to embroider.

Sleeves (work a right and a left-hand sided version)

Using smaller needles and MC, CO 34 (34, 38, 42, 42) sts.

Right-hand Sleeve only

Set-up Row (WS): (P1, k1) to end.

Work sts as they appear for further 5 (5, 9, 9, 9) rows.

Next Row (WS): Work 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) sts as they appear, p1, p2togtbl, pm, work sts as they appear to end of row. (33 (33, 37, 41, 41) sts)

Left-hand Sleeve only

Setup row (WS): (K1, p1) to end.

Work sts as they appear for further 5 (5, 9, 9, 9) rows.

Next row (WS): Work 23 (23, 25, 29, 29) sts as they appear, p2tog, p1, pm, work sts as they appear end of row. (33 (33, 37, 41, 41) sts)

Both Sleeves

Inc Row (RS): K1, m1 k-st, work sts as set to last st, m1 k-st, k1.

Inc Row (WS): P1, m1 p-st, work sts as set to last st, m1 p-st, p1.

Reset row counter.

Row 1 (RS): Using larger needles, p to m, rm, k2, p to end.

Work sts as they appear for further 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) rows.

Work an Inc Row. (35 (35, 39, 43, 43) sts)

Rep last 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) rows further 8 (9, 9, 10, 7) times. (51 (53, 57, 63, 57) sts)

Work sts as they appear for 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) rows

Work an Inc Row. (53 (55, 59, 65, 59) sts)

Rep last 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) rows further 3 (4, 5, 3, 9) times. (59 (63, 69, 71, 77) sts)

Work sts as they appear for further 12 (13, 14, 17, 20) rows, ending with a WS row.

Sleeve Caps

Dec Row (RS): P1, p2togtbl, work sts as they appear to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.

Dec Row (WS): K1, k2tog, work sts as they appear to last 3 sts, k2togtbl, k1.

Next 2 Rows: BO 3 (2, 2, 2, 1) sts, work sts as they appear to end. (53 (59, 65, 67, 75) sts)

Next 4 (3, 3, 3, 2) Rows: Work as Dec Rows. (45 (53, 59, 61, 71) sts)

Next Row: Work sts as they appear.

Next Row: Work as Dec Row. (43 (51, 57, 59, 69) sts)

Rep last 2 rows further 1 (1, 1, 0, 0) times. (41 (49, 55, 59, 69) sts)

Next 3 Rows: Work sts as they appear.

Next Row: Work as Dec Row. (39 (47, 53, 57, 67) sts)

Rep last 4 rows further 0 (0, 0, 1, 1) times. (39 (47, 53, 55, 65) sts)

Next Row: Work sts as they appear.

Next Row: Work as Dec Row. (37 (45, 51, 53, 63) sts)

Rep last 2 rows further 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) times. (31 (37, 41, 41, 49) sts)

Next 5 (7, 7, 7, 9) rows: Work as Dec Rows. (21 (23, 27, 27, 31) sts)

Next 2 Rows: BO 6 (7, 8, 8, 10) sts, work sts as they appear to end. (9 (9, 11, 11, 11) sts)

Next Row: BO all rem sts.

Finishing

Sew in sleeve caps. Close underarm and side seams using mattress stitch.

Place five buttons according to buttonholes on button band and sew them down.

Use sewing thread if the yarn is too thick for the holes in the buttons.

Place two other buttons on the pocket flaps and sew them down stitching through the flaps and through the knitwear underneath. This will prevent the flaps from sticking out undesirably.

Gently soak jacket in lukewarm water, rinse it, roll it in a towel and push hard on the roll to remove excess water. Remove the towel and lay the jacket out flat to air-dry. Pin down the collar´s edges and the pocket flaps to make them point.

After it is completely dry, weave in all loose ends.