Ruby is a simple top-down seamless raglan with a center front cable panel and stockinette body. This sweater also features waist and hip shaping for a flattering fit.
Skill Level: Intermediate
Size: XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) Finished Bust Size 33 (36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 52)” / [84 (91, 99, 107, 114, 122, 132) cm] with Length 25 (26, 26, 27, 27, 28, 28)” / [64 (66, 66, 69, 69, 71, 71) cm] (includes tip to lengthen or shorten)
Gauge: 20 sts and 24 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st
Materials
Yarn: Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams: 5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8) balls)
Sample worked in Cascade 220 color 2427 Glamour in size S and used about 930 yards or 420 g.
Needles: US size 7 (4.5 mm) 16″ and 24″ or 32″ circular; US size 7 (4.5 mm) one set DPNs for Sleeves; US size 5 (3.75 mm) 16” and 24” or 32” for ribbing; US size 5 (3.75 mm) one set DPNs for Sleeve ribbing
Notions: Markers, tapestry needle, scrap yarn, cable needle
Abbreviations
K1f&b – knit into front and then back of the same stitch
M1L – make one left increase by lifting strand between sts from front to back with the left needle and then knitting through the back of it with the right needle
M1R – make one right increase by lifting the strand between sts from back to front and then knitting through the front of it
Special Stiches
2/1 LPC: Sl 2 sts to cable needle, hold in front, p1 from left-hand needle, k2 from cable needle.
2/1 RPC: Sl 1 st to cable needle, hold in back, k2 from left-hand needle, p1 from cable needle.
2/2 LC: Sl 2 sts to cable needle, hold in front, k2 from left-hand needle, k2 from cable needle.
K2, P2 Rib
Rnd 1: *K2, p2; rep from * around.
Rep Rnd 1 for patt.
Cable (worked over 34 sts)
Rnd 1: P2, k2, p6, k2, p3, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2, p2.
Rnd 2: P2, k2, p6, k2, p3, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2, p2.
Rnd 3: P2, k2, p6, k2, p3, 2/2 LC, p3, k2, p6, k2, p2.
Rnd 4: P2, k2, p6, k2, p3, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2, p2.
Rnd 5: P2, 2/1 LPC, p4, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p4, 2/1 RPC, p2.
Rnd 6: P3, k2, p4, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, p4, k2, p3.
Rnd 7: P3, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p3.
Rnd 8: P4, k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, p4, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2, p4.
Rnd 9: P4, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p4.
Rnd 10: P5, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2, p3, k4, p5.
Rnd 11: P5, 2/2 LC, p3, k2, p6, k2, p3, 2/2 LC, p5.
Rnd 12: P5, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2, p3, k4, p5.
Rnd 13: P5, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2, p3, k4, p5.
Rnd 14: P5, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2, p3, k4, p5.
Rnd 15: P5, 2/2 LC, p3, k2, p6, k2, p3, 2/2 LC, p5.
Rnd 16: P5, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2, p3, k4, p5.
Rnd 17: P4, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p4, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p4.
Rnd 18: P4, k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, p4, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2, p4.
Rnd 19: P3, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, p3.
Rnd 20: P3, k2, p4, k2, p3, k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, p4, k2, p3.
Rnd 21: P2, 2/1 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2, 2/1 RPC, p4, 2/1 LPC, p2.
Rnd 22: P2, k2, p6, k2, p3, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2, p2.
Rnd 23: P2, k2, p6, k2, p3, 2/2 LC, p3, k2, p6, k2, p2.
Rnd 24: P2, k2, p6, k2, p3, k4, p3, k2, p6, k2, p2.
Rep Rnds 1-24 for patt.
Pattern Notes
Sweater is written in 7 sizes.
Cables are charted and written.
Pattern
Using larger needles, CO 58 (58, 66, 68, 74, 80, 80) sts.
Set-up Row (WS): P2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4) Front sts, pm for first Sleeve, p8 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 12) Sleeve sts, pm for Back, p38 (38, 42, 42, 46, 48, 48) Back sts, pm for second Sleeve, p8 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 12) Sleeve sts, place unique marker, p2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4) Front sts.
Row 1 (RS, Inc): Knit to last st before marker, k1f&b, *sm, k1f&b, k to last st before marker, k1f&b; rep from * to last marker, sm, k1f&b, k to end. (8 sts inc’d)
Rows 2 (WS): Purl.
Work Rows 1-2, 11 (11, 11, 11, 11, 11, 11) more times. (14 (14, 15, 15, 15, 16, 16) sts each Front, 32 (32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 36) sts each Sleeve, 62 (62, 66, 66, 70, 72, 72) Back sts)
On the next round you will join in the round by casting on the center Front sts as follows.
Join in the Rnd
Next Rnd (Inc): Knit to last st before marker, k1f&b, *sm, k1f&b, k to last st before marker, k1f&b; rep from * to last marker, sm, k1f&b, k to last Front st, using the backwards loop cast on method, CO 34 (34, 36, 36, 40, 40, 40) center Front sts, join in the rnd and k to unique marker. (64 (64, 68, 68, 72, 74, 74) sts on each Back and Front, 34 (34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 38) sts each Sleeve; 196 (196, 206, 208, 218, 224, 224) total sts)
Note: The unique marker is now the beginning of rnd marker.
Begin Cable patt
From here you will work in the rnd down the Body in repeats of the Cable patt and maintaining increases every other round until you reach your stitch count.
Rnd 1 (Set-up): Slip unique marker, k around to Front section slipping markers as needed, k15 (15, 17, 17, 19, 20, 20) sts, place cable marker, work first rnd of Cable patt over next 34 sts as written or from chart, place cable marker, k15 (15, 17, 17, 19, 20, 20).
Rnd 2 (Inc): *Sm, k1f&b, k to last st before marker, k1f&b; rep from * twice more, sm for Front, k1f&b, k to cable marker, sm, work next rnd of Cable patt, sm, k to last st before marker, k1f&b. (8 sts inc’d)
Rnd 3: Sm, k around to cable section slipping markers as needed, work next rnd of Cable patt, k to end.
Rep Rnds 2-3, 7 (10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 20) more times. (80 (86, 94, 98, 104, 110, 116) sts on each Back and Front, 50 (56, 61, 66, 69, 74, 80) sts each Sleeve; 260 (284, 310, 328, 346, 368, 392) total sts)
Continue to work even down the Body maintaining the Cable patt with no further increases until raglan meas about 10 (10.5, 11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 13)” or to desired length, and then go to Separate Body and Sleeves below.
Note: Here is the perfect spot to take advantage of how easy it is to try on a top down garment for a custom fit and adjust your armhole depth as needed. Keep in mind that if you change your length here you may want to adjust the underarm to BO length at the bottom of the garment to achieve your desired final length.
Separate Body and Sleeves
Next Rnd: Slip unique marker, place 50 (56, 61, 66, 69, 74, 80) Left Sleeve sts onto scrap yarn for later, remove marker, using the backward-loop CO method, CO 1 (2, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) sts for underarm, k across 80 (86, 94, 98, 104, 110, 116) Back sts, remove marker, place next 50 (56, 61, 66, 69, 74, 80) Right Sleeve sts on hold for later, using the backward-loop CO method, CO 1 (2, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) sts for underarm, sm for side, using the backward-loop CO method, CO 1 (2, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) sts for underarm, work across 80 (86, 94, 98, 104, 110, 116) front sts maintaining the Cable, using the backward-loop CO method, CO 1 (2, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) sts. (164 (180, 196, 208, 224, 240, 256) total Body sts)
Note: The 2 remaining markers are now placed directly in the middle under the underarm cast-on sts where a side seam would be.
Work in St st, maintaining the Cable patt until Body meas 4” / [10 cm] from underarm cast-on or to desired length to begin Waist and Hip Shaping. Then go to Waist Shaping.
Waist Shaping
Dec Rnd: *Sm, k1, k2tog, work to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1; rep from * once more maintaining the Cable patt. (4 sts dec’d)
Work 1 rnd.
Rep Dec Rnd once more. (4 sts dec’d; 156 (172, 188, 200, 216, 232, 248) sts)
Work 2” / [5 cm] in St st, maintaining the Cable patt. Then go to Hip Shaping.
Note: If you’ve never knit one of my designs before this shaping may feel slightly foreign to you. I use a variation of this waist and then hip shaping in all of my top-down designs. I found something similar to it years ago when my favorite store-bought sweater died and I haven’t used another shaping since because I feel this one is very flattering for so many different body types.
Hip Shaping
Inc Rnd: *Sm, k1, M1L, work to last st before marker, M1R, k1; rep from * once more, maintaining the Cable patt. (4 sts inc’d)
Rep Inc Rnd every 6th Rnd 3 more times. You will now have completed four hip increase rounds. (172 (188, 204, 216, 232, 248, 264) sts)
Note: The hip increases as written in combination with the natural stretch of the center cable give you a hip measurement a little less than 2” / [5 cm] larger than your chest. My favorite thing about top-down garments is you can try them on as you knit to get the right fit for you. No two bodies are exactly alike, so please try on the sweater as you work to get the fit just how you want for your body. Feel free to add or subtract hip increase rounds as necessary. Please keep in mind if you change your stitch counts here, it will affect your stitch counts below.
Work even in patt until Sweater meas 12 (12.5, 12, 12.5, 12, 12.5, 12)” / [31 (32, 31, 32, 31, 32, 32) cm] from the underarm or to desired length, ending after a Rnd 1 (or any other round with the same stitch placement) of Cable patt to flow into the ribbing.
Note: Depending on your row gauge the final sweater as written measures about 25 (26, 26, 27, 27, 28, 28)” / [64 (66, 66, 69, 69, 71, 71) cm] long. If you would like to lengthen or shorten, feel free to add or subtract rounds here to get the fit just how you want for your body. Keep in mind that the Bottom Ribbing and BO just below this will add about 3” / [8 cm] to your garment. Also keep in mind if you decide to lengthen here you will need additional yarn!
Bottom Ribbing
Switch to smaller circular needle.
To properly align the bottom ribbing with the Cable patt, sizes – (-, -, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) move the beginning of round marker one stitch to the left.
Set-Up Rnd: Slip unique marker, (k2, p2) to last 2 sts before Cable patt, k2, remove cable marker, (p2, k2) to last 2 sts of cable, p2, remove cable marker, (k2, p2) to end of round.
Work in K2, P2 Rib for 14 more rnds.
Loosely BO all sts knitwise.
Sleeves
Return 50 (56, 61, 66, 69, 74, 80) Sleeve sts to needles.
With RS facing and beginning at center of underarm, pick up and k1 (2, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) sts along underarm cast-on, k50 (56, 61, 66, 69, 74, 80) Sleeve sts, pick up and k1 (2, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) sts along underarm cast-on. Pm and join in the rnd. (52 (60, 65, 72, 77, 84, 92) sts)
Work 10 rnds in St st.
Dec Rnd: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (2 sts dec’d)
Rep Dec Rnd every 6th rnd 1 (5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 11) more times. (48 (48, 53, 56, 61, 64, 68) sts)
To achieve a number divisible by 4 for the Sleeve Ribbing for Sizes M and 1X, randomly decrease by one further stitch. (48 (48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68) sts)
Note: Sleeves as written meas about 9.5 (9.5, 10.5, 11, 12, 13, 13.5)” / [24 (24, 26.5, 28, 30.5, 33, 34) cm] around at end of decreases. Feel free to add decrease rows to get your desired fit. Be sure to end with a number divisible by 4 for Sleeve Ribbing. If you make changes, be sure to take note of your changes and duplicate them for the second sleeve!)
Work even in St st until Sleeve meas about 14 (14, 14, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15)” / [36 (36, 36, 37, 37, 38, 38) cm] from underarm or to desired Sleeve length.
Note: Keep in mind that the Sleeve ribbing will add about 3” / [8 cm] to the final Sleeve length.
Sleeve Ribbing
Switch to smaller DPNs.
Work in K2, P2 Rib for 15 rnds.
Loosely BO all sts knitwise.
Repeat for second Sleeve.
Neck Ribbing
Starting at the Right Back corner with smaller circular needles and RS facing, pick up and k38 (38, 42, 42, 46, 48, 48) Back sts, 8 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 12) Left Sleeves sts, about 2 sts for every 3 rows down the Left Front side (approximately 16 (16, 18, 17, 18, 19, 19) sts), 34 (34, 36, 36, 40, 40, 40) center Front sts, about 2 sts for every 3 rows up the Right Front side (approximately 16 (16, 18, 17, 18, 17, 17) sts) and 8 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 12) Right Sleeve sts. Pm and join in the rnd. (approximately 120 (120, 132, 132, 144, 148, 148) sts)
Note: Depending on your final neck st count, you may need to decrease or increase some on your first neck round to properly align the ribbing to the Cable. The exact number of neckband sts does not matter as long as it is divisible by 4 plus 2 before the Cable patt and divisible by 4 after the Cable patt.
Set-Up Rnd: Slip unique marker, (k2, p2) to last 2 sts before Cable patt, k2, sm, (p2, k2) to last 2 sts of cable patt, p2, sm, (k2, p2) to end of rnd.
Work in K2, P2 Rib for 6 more rnds.
Dec Rnd: Work K2, P2 Rib to Cable patt marker, remove marker, (p2, k2tog) 8 times, p2, remove marker, (k2, p2) to end. (8 sts dec’d)
Loosely BO all sts knitwise.
Finishing
Weave in all ends.
Wash and block as desired.