This textured raglan sweater will become your favorite, especially in cold gloomy winter. Worked from the top down and in the round, using raglan increases, it features a textured yet simple stitch pattern making it perfect to wear with high-waisted jeans and over dresses.
Time: 2-3 Week Project
Skill Level: Intermediate
Size: Sizes: S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL)
The sizes are designed to fit a chest circumference of 34-36 (36-38, 38-40, 40-44, 44-48, 48-52) inches [85-90 (90-95, 95-100, 100-110, 110-120, 120-130) cm]
Finished Bust Size: 38 (43, 47, 53, 57, 60) inches [95 (110, 120, 135, 145, 152) cm]
The sweater is designed to have around 2-8 inches [5-20 cm] positive ease. This means that if you measure 36.75 inches [92 cm] around your chest (measure yourself around your chest, or your widest point using a measuring tape), you can knit a size S which has a circumference of 38 inches [95 cm] for a tighter fit or knit a size M for a more relaxed and oversized fit.
Length measured from collar, mid-back, to hem: 21 (22, 23, 23.5, 24, 25) inches [54 (56, 58, 60, 62, 64) cm]
Yoke depth measured from start of collar, mid-back: 8 (9, 10, 10.5, 11.5, 12) inches [21.5 (23.5, 25, 27, 29, 31) cm]
Sleeve length measured from the underarm: 16 (18, 19, 19.5, 20, 20.5) inches [41 (45, 48, 49, 51, 52) cm]
Gauge: 16 sts and 23 rows = 4” [10 cm] in Sand Rice stitch after wet blocking
Materials
Yarn: Drops Air (65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool; 164 yards [150 meters]/50 grams): Blush, mix 32 (MC, 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) balls)
Needles: US 6 4-mm circular needles, with 16-inch cable length [40-cm] and
US 8 5-mm circular needles, with 16- and 32-inch cable length [40- and 80-cm]
Notions: removable markers, stitch holders, tapestry needle
Special Stitches
Pattern is worked using Sand Rice Stitch
Rnd 1: K
Rnd 2: [K1, P1]
Rnd 3: K
Rnd 4: [P1, K1]
All raglan increases are worked only on K rounds.
Pattern Notes
The piece is worked in the round with circular needles from mid back, top down. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles.
About raglan increases
The raglan increases are worked on either side of a central raglan stitch. Seen from the RS, the raglan increases on the right side of the raglan stitch slant right (M1R), while the increases on the left side of the raglan stitch slant left (M1L).
How to work the increases:
M1R: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to front, then knit this strand.
M1L: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to back, then knit this strand through the back loop (twisted).
Pattern
Cast on 80 (84, 88, 96, 100, 104) stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and MC. Join in the round and place a marker for the beginning of the round. Work 3 inches [7 cm] of (k1, p1) rib.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm and work the next round as follows:
Divide the work for working the raglan increases by placing stitch markers on either side of the raglan stitch (a total of 8 markers). Optionally use different colored markers for raglan and beginning of round, so you have a system. Divide as follows:
K15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts for half back, PM, k1, PM, k8 (8, 8, 10, 10, 10) sts for sleeve, PM, k1, PM, k30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts for front, PM, k1, PM, k8 (8, 8, 10, 10, 10) sts for sleeve, PM, k1, PM, k15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts for half back.
Continue working in the round in Sand Rice Stitch, while at the same time working raglan increases on every K round, as follows:
*K across right side of back, M1R, knit the raglan stitch, M1L, knit across right sleeve, M1R, knit the raglan stitch, M1L, knit across front, M1R, knit the raglan stitch, M1L, knit across left sleeve, M1R, knit the raglan stitch, M1L, knit across left side of back (8 sts have been increased).*
Work next round in K1, P1 keeping in mind to work the stitch pattern, i.e. even the increases are to be worked either in k or p stitch according to which round of the stitch pattern you are, i.e. round 2 or 4. The raglan stitch will always be worked in k stitch.
Work from * to * a total of 21 (22, 24, 27, 28, 30) times. There are now a total of 248 (260, 280, 312, 324, 344) on the needles, or until yoke measures from start of collar: 8 (9, 10, 10.5, 11.5, 12) inches [21.5 (23.5, 25, 27, 29, 31) cm]. Make sure you end with a P1, K1 round (i.e. Round 4 of stitch pattern).
Change to a longer circular needle along the way, to accommodate the growing number of sts.
Note: At this point I recommend you try on your yoke. Your piece should comfortably cover your chest and you should be able to pinch the front and back of your yoke together underneath your armpits. If it is not long enough, continue in pattern without increasing, until you achieve this length. Please keep in mind that this will add to the yardage needed.
Body
Updated 12/10/2024
Now divide the sts for sleeves and body, while at the same time casting on new sts at each underarm, as follows:
Knit 36 (38, 41, 45, 47, 50) stitches (right back piece), knit the raglan stitch, place the next 50 (52, 56, 64, 66, 70) on a stitch holder or length of leftover yarn (right sleeve), cast on 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) new sts at the underarm using the backward loop method, knit the raglan stitch, knit 72 (76, 82, 90, 94, 100) sts (front), knit the raglan stitch, place the next 50 (52, 56, 64, 66, 70) sts on a stitch holder or length of leftover yarn (left sleeve), cast on 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) new sts at the underarm using the backward loop method, knit the raglan stitch, knit 36 (38, 41, 45, 47, 50) sts (left side of back).
There are now 160 (168, 184, 200, 212, 224) sts on the needles for the body. Place a marker for the beginning of the round in the center of the new sts cast on at the right underarm.
Sleeves
Updated 12/10/2024
The sleeves are worked in the round on 5 mm [US 8] double-pointed needles or on a circular needle using the Magic Loop technique. Place the sts that were put on hold for one sleeve back on the needles. Pick up and knit 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) sts along the 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) sts that were cast on at the underarm for the body.
There are now a total of 56 (58, 64, 72, 76, 80) sts on the needles. Place a marker for the beginning of the round in the middle of the 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) underarm sts.
Note: The sleeves are worked in Sand Rice Stitch but you are going to invert how the Rounds are worked.
Rnd 1: K
Rnd 2: [P1, K1]
Rnd 3: K
Rnd 4: [K1, P1]
Work even in established pattern starting with a K round, and then work two (2) decreases on the 9th round (K round) by working k1, k2tog, work until 3 sts remain, ssk, k1.
After that you will work decreases every 8th Round or every 4th k round.
How to work the sleeves
Detailed explanation on how to work the sleeves:
Round 1: K
Round 2: [P1, K1]
Round 3: K
Round 4: [K1, P1]
Repeat the above section two times and then work a decrease round as follows
Round 9: K (decrease round)
Round 10: [K1, P1]
Round 11: K
Round 12: [P1, K1]
Repeat the above section once again but without decreasing.
After that work an 8-round section of the Rice Sand stitch as established, with decreasing two stitches after every 4th K Round of the stitch pattern.
until the sleeve measures 15 (15.25,15.25, 15.25 ,15, 15) inches [38 (39, 39, 39, 38, 38 cm]
Reduce the number of sts to 38 (38, 44, 44, 48, 48) sts. If you find that the sleeve is too short, knit further in established stitch pattern without decreasing until desired length.
Change to 4 mm [US 8] needles and work 2 inches [5 cm] of (k1, p1) rib for all sizes. Bind off
in established rib pattern. Work the other sleeve identically and weave in all ends.
ASSEMBLY
Weave in any remaining ends. Block your sweater.
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I am making the size small and it seems like the stitch counts for that size are not correct when you get to dividing for the body. I have 36 sts for each half back, 50sts for each sleeve, and 72sts for the body plus of course the 4 raglan sts.
This does add up to the 248, but when you get to dividing it it says to knit 38sts across back and the other number are all different too, even tho they also end up adding to 248 (there are less sts for the sleeves and more for the front and backs). I added up the original sts cast on for each section and added on the increases and mine add up correctly, unless I’m missing something? I’m getting back into knitting after a number of years away so I’m not sure if I’m misunderstanding something or if the stitch count is a mistake. Any clarification would be appreciate! I love how this pattern is coming out so far and can’t wait to wear it!
From the designer: Thank you for pointing out the difference in stitch counts you encountered while working on the pattern. Upon reviewing it, we realized that this was due to an errata in the original instructions. We sincerely apologize for the oversight and any confusion it may have caused. We’re grateful for your understanding and will ensure the pattern is updated to prevent further confusion. If you have any additional questions or need further clarification, please don’t hesitate to ask. Thank you again for your feedback and for being a part of this project!
I have never knitted a sweater previously. I would like to make this one. I see where it says to place a marker after each raglan stitch. Where or what is the raglan stitch. I see one special stitch called Sand Rice Stitch, so, so is that meant to be the raglan stitch? Sorry if this is a dumb question.
From the designer: If you would like to try the pattern, below are some clarifications!
The Sand Rice Stitch is the stitch pattern the sweater is knitted in.
It is worked as follows:
Rnd 1: K
Rnd 2: [K1, P1]
Rnd 3: K
Rnd 4: [P1, K1]
A raglan sweater is a sweater using a technique where you work your increases to form ‘raglan seams’ and the body and sleeves are knit simultaneously.
The term ‘Raglan seams’ refer to when the sleeves start at the very top of the neck, and follow the shoulder lines, from the neck to the sleeves, resulting in a nice effect marking the transition between the sleeves and the body.
The raglan stitch is used to mark where the body and sleeves are separated!
Hope this helps! – Nicola, Editor