Equitation Jacket

Skill Level: Advanced

Size: Finished Bust Size 33.25 (37.25, 41.25, 45.25, 49.25)” to fit bust 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)

Approx 1-1.5” positive ease recommended at bust.

Shown in size 36”

Gauge: 20 sts and 26 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after wet blocking

Materials

Yarn: Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 Heathers (100% Peruvian Highland; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams): 8013 (MC, 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) balls), 9448 (CC, 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) balls)

Needles: US size 6 (4.0 mm) 24” / [60 cm] or longer circular for Body; US size 6 (4 mm) DPNs or 40” / [100 cm] circular for Sleeves; US size 4 (3.5 mm) 24” / [60 cm] or longer circular for folded hem, neckline lapel, and applied I cord edge; US size 4 (3.5 mm) DPNs or 40” / [100 cm] circular for Sleeves folded hem.

Notions: Removable markers, waste yarn, tapestry needle, five 1” buttons.

Special Stitches

1/1 Ribbing

Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * across.

Rep Row 1 for patt.

German Short Rows Method: ds (double stitch, first stitch after you turned work)

Slip st purlwise with yarn in front. Pull the st with the yarn over the needle to the back. The two legs of the st are viewable on the needle (double stitch).

On the next full row: Knit the two legs of ds as one.

 

Pattern Notes

The jacket is worked top down, starting at shoulders. Pieces are worked separately and joined at the underarms. The body is then worked flat in one piece.

It features reverse Stockinette st all over the body and sleeves, with fake seams marked by a line of slip stitches along the front, back, sides and sleeves.

Folded hems are worked in Stockinette stitch and contrasting color. Bottom edge of body is shaped with short rows.

Stitches are then picked up for set in sleeves and neckline lapel, which is worked in 1/1 ribbing.

Front edges are finished with applied I-cord.

Please read the whole instructions before starting.

Pattern

Back

With MC, using Long Tail CO Method, and larger needles, CO 75 (77, 79, 81, 83) sts.

Row 1 (RS): K1, p22 (22, 22, 23, 24), pm, p14 (15, 16, 16, 16), pm, k1, pm, p14 (15, 16, 16, 16), pm, p22 (22, 22, 23, 24), k1.

Row 2 (WS): P1, k to m, sm, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to m, sm, k6, turn.

Row 3: Ds, p5, sm, p to m, sm, k1, sm, p to m, sm, p6, turn.

Row 4: Ds, k to m, sm, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to m, sm, k to ds, k ds, k6, turn.

Row 5: Ds, p to m, sm, p to m, sm, k1, sm, p to m, sm, p to ds, p ds, p6, turn.

Rows 6-7: Rep Rows 4-5.

Row 8: Ds, k to m, sm, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to m, sm, k to last st, p1.

Row 9: K1, p to m, sm, p to m, sm, k1, sm, p to m, sm, p to last st (p ds when crossing it), k1.

Row 10: P1, k to m, rm, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to m, rm, k to last st, p1.

Rep Rows 9-10, 18 (16, 17, 18, 17) more times.

Start armhole shaping as follows:

Row 11 (RS): Rep Row 9.

Row 12 (Inc): P1, k1, m1L, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to last 2 sts, m1R, k1, p1. (2 sts inc’d; 77 (79, 81, 83, 85) sts)

Rep Rows 11-12, 3 (7, 7, 7, 9) more times. (6 (14, 14, 14, 18) sts inc’d; 83 (93, 95, 97, 103) total sts)

Move sts to waste yarn.

Right Front

With RS facing, starting from the external edge, pick up and k23 (23, 23, 24, 25) sts along the back Right Shoulder, CO 1 st with backward loop CO method. (1 st inc’d; 24 (24, 24, 25, 26) sts)

Row 1 (WS): P1, k13 (13, 13, 14, 14), pm, p1, pm, k to last st, p1.

Row 2 (RS): K1, p to m, sm, k1, sm, p to last st, k1,

Row 3: P1, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to last st, k1.

Rep Rows 2-3, 7 (7, 7, 7, 6) more times.

While working as established, start increases at inner edge for neckline shaping:

Row 4 (RS): Rep Row 2.

Row 5 (WS): P1, k1, m1L, work as established to end. (1 st inc’d; 25 (25, 25, 26, 27) sts)

Row 6: K1, p to m, sm, k1, sm, p to last st, k1,

Row 7: P1, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to last st, k1.

Rep previous 4 rows 6 (4, 5, 5, 5) more times. (6 (4, 5, 5, 5) sts inc’d; 31 (29, 30, 31, 32) sts)

Rep Rows 4-5, 3 (5, 4, 5, 4) more times. (3 (5, 4, 5, 4) sts inc’d; 34 (34, 34, 36, 36) sts)

Start increasing at armhole at the same time than front:

Row 8 (RS): Rep Row 2.

Row 9 (WS): P1, k1, m1L, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to last 2 st, m1R, k1, p1. (2 sts inc’d; 36 (36, 36, 38, 38) sts)

Rep Rows 8-9, 0 (4, 4, 4, 7) more times. (0 (8, 8, 8, 14) sts inc’d; 36 (44, 44, 46, 52) sts)

Row 10 (RS): K1, p to m, sm, k1, sm, p to end, CO 6 (5, 6, 6, 5) with backward loop CO method. (6 (5, 6, 6, 5) sts inc’d; 42 (49, 50, 52, 57) sts)

Row 11 (WS): P1, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to last 2 st, m1R, k1, p1. (1 st inc’d; 43 (50, 51, 53, 58) sts)

Row 12: Rep Row 10. (6 (5, 6, 6, 5) sts inc’d; 49 (55, 57, 59, 63) sts)

Row 13: Rep Row 11. (1 st inc’d; 50 (56, 58, 60, 64) sts)

Row 14: K1, p to m, sm, k1, sm, p to end, CO 4 (4, 5, 5, 4) with backward loop CO method. (4 (4, 5, 5, 4) sts inc’d; 54 (60, 63, 65, 68) sts)

Row 15: Rep Row 11. (1 st inc’d; 55 (61, 64, 66, 69) sts)

Move sts to waste yarn.

Left Front

With RS facing, pick up and k23 (23, 23, 24, 25) sts along the back Right Shoulder.

Row 1 (WS): P1, k8 (8, 8, 8, 9), pm, p1, pm, k to last st, CO 1 st. (1 st inc’d; 24 (24, 24, 25, 26) sts)

Row 2 (RS): K1, p to m, sm, k1, sm, p to last st, k1,

Row 3: P1, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to last st, k1.

Rep Rows 2-3, 12 (12, 11, 12, 11) more times.

While working as established, start increases at inner edge for neckline shaping:

Row 4 (RS): Rep Row 2.

Row 5 (WS): P1, work as established to last 2 sts, m1R, k1, p1. (1 st inc’d; 25 (25, 25, 26, 27) sts)

Row 6: K1, p to m, sm, k1, sm, p to last st, k1,

Row 7: P1, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to last st, k1.

Rep previous 4 rows 5 (4, 5, 5, 5) more times. (5 (4, 5, 5, 5) sts inc’d; 30 (29, 30, 31, 32) sts)

Start increasing at armhole at the same time than neckline shaping:

Row 9 (RS): K1, p to m, sm, k1, sm, p to last st, k1.

Row 10 (WS): P1, k1, m1L, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to last 2 st, m1R, k1, p1. (2 sts inc’d; 32 (31, 32, 33, 34) sts)

Row 11: K1, p to m, sm, k1, sm, p to last st, k1,

Row 12: P1, k1, m1L, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to last st, p1. (1 st inc’d; 33 (32, 33, 34, 35) sts)

Rep Rows 9-12, 1 (3, 3, 3, 4) more times. (3 (9, 9, 9, 12) sts inc’d; 36 (41, 42, 43, 47) sts)

Join Front and Back pieces

With RS facing, work Left Front as established, CO 0 (0, 4, 8, 10), pm, CO 0 (0, 4, 8, 10), work Back as established, CO 0 (0, 4, 8, 10), pm, CO 0 (0, 4, 8, 10), work Right Front as established to end. (174 (195, 217, 238, 259) sts total; 55 (61, 68, 74, 79) for Right Front; 36 (41, 46, 51, 57) for Left Front; 83 (93, 103, 113, 123) for Back)

Body

Row 1 (WS): P1, *k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to last st before m, sl1, rm, sl1 back to left needle, p2tog, pm; rep from * once more, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to last st, p1. (2 sts dec’d; 172 (193, 215, 236, 257) sts)

Work 6 more rows as established, ending with RS row.

Start decreases at bust and work the first buttonhole at the same time:

Row 2 (WS, Dec): P1, k3, BO 3, turn the work, CO 4 sts with backward loop CO method, turn work, sl1 from left needle to right needle, BO 1, k3, k to 2 sts before m, ssk, sm, sl1, sm, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k10 (14, 18, 22, 27), ssk, pm, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to 12 (16, 20, 24, 29) sts before next m, pm, k2tog, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k2tog, k to last st, p1. (4 sts dec’d; 168 (189, 211, 232, 253) sts

Rep Dec Row every 6 rows 5 more times. (20 sts dec’d; 148 (169, 191, 212, 233) sts)

Work buttonhole every 12 rows 4 more times (you will work the third and the fifth bust decreases at the same row as the second and third buttonhole).

After working the 6th decrease, work 6 rows as established.

Start increases for hip shaping and work forth buttonhole at the same time:

Row 3 (WS, Inc): P1, k3, BO 3, turn the work, CO 4 sts with backward loop CO method, turn work, sl1 from left needle to right needle, BO 1, k3, k to m, m1R, sm, sl1, sm, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to m, m1R, sm, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to m, m1L, sm, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to m, sm, sl1, sm, m1L, k to last st, p1. (4 sts inc’d; 152 (173, 195, 216, 237) sts)

Rep Inc Row every 6 rows 4 more times. (16 sts inc’d; 168 (189, 211, 232, 253) sts)

Work bottom shaping as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Work as established until 4 sts before the end, turn.

Row 2 (WS): Ds, work as established until 4 sts before the end, turn.

Row 3: Ds, work as established until 4 sts before the ds, turn.

Row 2: Ds, work as established until 4 sts before the ds, turn.

Rep Rows 3-4, 10 more times.

Next Row (RS): Ds, work as established to end, purling ds when crossing them (remember to work both st and its yo together).

Next Row (WS): Work as established to end, knitting ds when crossing them (remember to work both st and its yo together).

Work folded hem as follows:

Break MC and attach CC.

Knit 1 row.

Purl 1 row.

Row 1 (RS): K until 7 sts before the end, turn.

Row 2 (WS): Ds, p until 7 sts before the end, turn.

Row 3: Ds, k until 7 sts before the ds, turn.

Row 4: Ds, p until 7 sts before the ds, turn.

Row 5: Ds, k until 7 sts before the ds, pm, turn.

Row 6: Ds, p until 7 sts before the ds, pm, turn.

Row 7: Purl all sts, including Ds (remember to work both st and its yo together).

Row 8: P to m, turn.

Row 9: Ds, k to m, turn.

Row 10: Ds, p to ds, p ds, rm, p7, turn.

Row 11: Ds, k to ds, k ds, rm, k7, turn.

Rep Rows 10-11 once more.

Row 10: P to end.

Turn the fabric inside out and with DPN pick up sts 17 rows below (along the edge between CC and MC). Fold the fabric along the RS purled row, carefully knit and BO each st together with the corresponding st.

Right Sleeve

Starting at shoulder seam, and moving toward front, mark 12 rows below with m (m1).

Also mark the first increase row at underarm at both front (m2) and back (m3).

Size – (-, 41.25, 45.25, 49.25)” only

Also mark the first newly casted on st at underarm at both front (m4) and back (m5).

All Sizes

With RS facing and using smaller needle, pick up and knit 10 sts out of 12 first rows (until m1), pick up and knit 20 (18, 19, 20, 19) sts along Front (approx. 1 out of 2 rows until m2), pick up and knit 4 (8, 8, 8, 10) sts along the Front underarm (until m4), pick up and knit 0 (0, 8, 16, 20) sts along the underarm, pick up and knit 4 (8, 8, 8, 10) sts along the Back underarm (until m5), pick up and knit 20 (18, 19, 20, 19) sts along Back (1 out of 2 rows until the shoulder seam). (58 (62, 72, 82, 88) sts)

Row 1 (RS): P5, pm, k1, pm, p4 to m, rm, W&T.

Row 2 (WS): K4, sm, sl1, sm, k6, W&T.

Row 3: P6, sm, k1, sm, p6, W&T.

Row 4: K6, sm, sl1, sm, k8, W&T.

Row 5: P8, sm, k1, sm, p8, W&T.

Row 6: K8, sm, sl1, sm, k10, W&T.

Row 7: P to m, sm, k1, sm, p to wrapped st, p the wrapped st, W&T.

Row 8: K to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to wrapped st, k the wrapped st, W&T.

Rep Rows 7-8 until you reach m3 and m4.

Sizes 33.25 (37.25, -, -, -)” only

Rep Rows 7-8 until you reach the end (underarm).

Sizes – (-, 41.25, 45.25, 49.25)” only

Rep Rows 7-8 until you reach the first newly casted on sts at underarm.

Row 9 (RS): P to m, sm, k1, sm, p to wrapped st, p the wrapped st, wrap 2 sts together, turn

Row 10 (WS): K to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to wrapped st, k the wrapped st, wrap 2 sts together, turn

Row 11: P to m, sm, k1, sm, p to wrapped sts, p the wrapped sts together, wrap 2 sts together, turn

Row 12: K to m, sm, sl1, sm, k to wrapped sts, k the wrapped sts together, wrap 2 sts together, turn.

Rep Rows 11-12 until you reach the last st at each side of the underarm.

All Sizes

(58 (62, 68, 74, 78) sts)

Turn work inside out and work from now in the rnd with WS facing. Pm for BOR, join in the round.

Work as established (knit all sts except the st along the slip st line – you will p and sl this st every other round) for 24 (18, 16, 12, 10) rnds.

Dec Rnd: K1, k2tog, work in established patt to 3 sts before BOR m, sm, ssk, k1. (2 sts dec’d; 56 (60, 66, 72, 76) sts)

Rep Dec Rnd 3 (4, 5, 7, 8) more times every 24 (18, 16, 12, 10) rnds. (6 (8, 10, 14, 16) sts dec’d; 50 (52, 56, 58, 60) sts)

Turn work on RS, change to CC and knit 6 rnds.

Purl 1 rnd.

Knit 5 rnds.

Turn the fabric inside out and with DPN, pick up sts 12 rnds below (along the edge between CC and MC). Fold the fabric along the RS purled rnd, carefully knit and BO each st together with the corresponding st.

Left Sleeve

Starting at shoulder seam, and moving toward front, mark 12 rows below with m (m1).

Also mark the first armhole increase rows at both front (m2) and back (m3).

Sizes – (-, 41.25, 45.25, 49.25)” only

Also mark the first newly casted on st at underarm at both front (m4) and back (m5).

With RS facing, using smaller needle, and starting from m1, pick up and knit 10 sts out of 12 first rows (until shoulder seam), pick up and knit 20 (18, 19, 20, 19) sts along Back (1 out of 2 rows until m3), pick up and knit 4 (8, 8, 8, 10) sts along the Back underarm (until m5), pick up and knit 0 (0, 8, 16, 20) sts along the underarm (until m4), pick up and knit 4 (8, 8, 8, 10) sts along the Front underarm (until m2), pick up and knit 20 (18, 19, 20, 19) sts along Front (1 out of 2 rows until m1).

All Sizes

(58 (62, 64, 72, 82, 88) sts)

Work now as for Right Sleeve.

Finishing

Starting from the bottom Left Front edge and using smaller needle, apply I-cord along the edge all around the Front and Neckline.

Neckline Lapel

With WS facing, using CC and smaller needle, pick up and knit 27 (28, 28, 29, 29, 30) sts (approx. 1 every row) along Left Front neckline, 29 (31, 33, 33, 35) sts (1 every st) from Back neckline, and 27 (28, 28, 29, 29, 30) sts (approx. 1 every row) from Right Front.

Work in 1/1 Ribbing for 24 rows (always slip the first st of each row).

BO using Jenny’s surprisingly stretchy bind off.

With WS facing and using MC, pick up and knit 21 sts (approx. 1 every row) along Left Front neckline (to help you, using a DPN needle, pick up sts from the edge of CC lapel down along the neckline and then knit them from down up on WS).

Work 2 rows in 1/1 Ribbing (always slip the first st of each row).

Next Row (RS): Sl1, p1, k1, p1, turn.

Next Row (WS): Ds, p1, k1, p1, turn.

Next Row: Sl1, p1, k1, p ds, (k1, p1) 2 times, turn.

Next Row: Ds, (p1, k1) 3 times, p1.

Next Row: Sl1, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1, turn.

Next Row: Ds, (p1, k1) 5 times, p1.

Next Row: Sl1, (p1, k1) 7 times, p1, turn.

Next Row: Ds, (p1, k1) 7 times, p1.

Work 2 rows in 1/1 Ribbing (always slip the first st of each row).

BO using Jenny’s surprisingly stretchy bind off.

With WS facing and using MC, pick up and knit 31 sts (approx. 1 every row) along the Right Front neckline.

Work 1 row in 1/1 Ribbing (always slip the first st of each row).

Next Row (WS): Sl1, (k1, p1) 2 times, k1, p1, turn.

Next Row (WS): Ds, (k1, p1) 2 times, p1.

Next Row: Sl1, (k1, p1) 2 times, k ds, (p1, k1) 3 times, turn.

Next Row: Ds, (k1, p1) 5 times, p1.

Next Row: Sl1, (k1, p1) 5 times, k ds, (k1, p1) 3 times, turn.

Next Row: Ds, (k1, p1) 8 times, p1.

Next Row: Sl1, (k1, p1) 8 times, k ds, (p1, k1) 3 times, turn.

Next Row: Ds, (k1, p1) 11 times, p1.

Work 3 rows in 1/1 Ribbing (always slip the first st of each row).

BO using Jenny’s surprisingly stretchy bind off.

Fake Pockets

Measure about 6.25” / [16 cm] from the bottom border up along the sides. Mark the point with markers.

Taking the line between the two markers as reference for height, with RS facing, pick up and knit 17 (17, 17, 20, 20) sts across the slip sts lines on front parts.

BO all sts using I-cord BO method.

Buttons

Sew on buttons on Left Front Panel along the buttonholes line.

Weave in ends.

Block the cardigan without stretching the fabric.