This toe-up sock pattern is reminiscent of taking a quiet walk on the beach at low tide, watching the waves of water coast onto shore and then rock back out to sea. The golden self-striping yarn adds a hint of fluidity to the pattern, like watching the sand slip through an hourglass.
Skill Level: Intermediate
Size: Small, (Medium, Large); approximate circumferences around the foot and ankle 6.75, (7.75, 8.75) inches, unstretched
Gauge: 9 stitches and 11 rows = 1 inch in stockinette, measured flat, unblocked
Materials
Yarn: Knit Picks Stroll Tonal (75% merino, 25% nylon; 462 yards [422 meters]/100 grams): Gold Rush (1 skein)
Needles: US size 1.5 (2.5 mm) needles or size required to obtain gauge
Notions: 1 stitch marker (optional), cable needle, tapestry needle
Abbreviations
Pm: place marker
Slm: slip marker
Cn: cable needle
LHN: Left Hand Needle
RHN: Right Hand Needle
Sl1: Slip 1 stitch purl-wise
WYIF: With Yarn In Front
Ktbl: Knit through back loop
KFB: Knit Front and Back increase
K2tog: Knit 2 sts together
SSK: Slip 2 sts as if to knit, then knit the 2 sts together through the back loops
P2tog: Purl 2 sts together
Ktbl: Knit through the back loop
Special Stitches
BC Back Cross: Sl 1 to cn, hold in BACK, Ktbl, P1 from cn.
FC Front Cross: Sl 1 to cn, hold in FRONT, P1, Ktbl from cn.
BT Back Twist: Sl1 st to cn, hold in BACK, Ktbl, Ktbl from cn.
FT Front Twist: Sl 1 st to cn, hold in FRONT, Ktbl, Ktbl from cn.
Pattern Notes
The pattern is written for DPNs referring to Needles 1-4. You can accommodate it for Magic Loop or 2 circulars by in the beginning using the front for Needles 1 and 2 and the back for Needles 3 and 4. The heel is worked over Needles 3 and 4 and once you begin the gusset, the beginning of the round is moved and Needles 1 and 4 will be on the front and Needles 2 and 3 will be in the back. There are three charts at the end of the pattern (page 5) (small, medium and large). If you prefer to knit on US 2’s go right ahead. Use whichever CO number you usually use for socks.
Pattern
Toe
Using a toe-up cast on, (I prefer Judy’s Magic cast-on.), cast on a total of 28(32, 36) stitches. Divide stitches evenly on the needles. If using DPNs, you may need to move stitches from needle to needle from time to time to accommodate the stitch pattern. Place a stitch marker to note the beginning of the round. (Note: Needles 1 and 2 are the top of the toe stitches. Needles 3 and 4 are the bottom of the toe stitches.)
Knit across the stitches on each needle.
Rnd 1:
Needle 1: KFB, knit until end of needle.
Needle 2: Knit until 2 stitches remain on needle, KFB, K1.
Needle 3: KFB, knit to end of needle.
Needle 4: Knit until 2stitches remain on needle, KFB, K1.
Rnd 2: Knit across the stitches on each needle.
Repeat these two rounds until you have a total of 56 (64, 72) stitches. If you prefer a more pointed toe, cast on fewer stitches and then work more rounds until you have increased to 56 (64, 72) stitches. If you prefer to use KFB (make one stitch in front and back) for your make 1 increase or if you prefer a different shape or constructed toe, by all means, work your toe of preference until you have the desired amount of stitches.
Foot
Once you have reached 56 (64, 72) stitches, you will begin working the foot. Needles 1 and 2 will be the top of the foot will become the instep (working the cable pattern) and Needles 3 and 4 will become the sole stitches (working in stockinette). Begin working from the charts or from the written instructions at the end of the pattern. Continue knitting the foot until your work measures 2.5 inches shorter (LESS) than the entire length of your foot.
Creating the Gusset
In this section Needles 1 and 2 will continue the sock in pattern and continue working up the foot and towards the front of the leg. Needles 3 and 4 will be increasing and forming the instep gusset on the sole part of the foot working towards the heel of the sock.
Rnd 1:
Needles 1 and 2: Continue working the next row in pattern.
Needle 3: KFB, knit to end of needle.
Needle 4: Knit until 2 stitches remain on needle, KFB, K1.
Rnd 2:
Needles 1 and 2: Continue working in pattern.
Needles 3 and 4: Knit all stitches.
Repeat these two rounds until you have a total of 48(56, 64) stitches on Needles 3 and 4.
Turning the Heel
Once you have reached 48 (56, 64) stitches, you will begin turning the heel. At this time, you should work over Needles 1 and 2 one more time, they will hold you the top stitches while you continue working back and forth over Needles 3 and 4 turning the heel.
**Make special of note the last Round you worked in pattern, as you will continue working that same round once the heel has been turned.
Row 1: (RS) K27 (31, 35), SSK, K1, turn.
Row 2: (WS) Sl1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, Knit until one stitch before the gap, SSK, K1, turn.
Row 4: Sl1, Purl until one stitch before the gap, P2tog, P1, turn.
Repeat these rows 3 and 4 until you have a total of 28 (32, 36) stitches remaining on Needles 3 and 4.
Leg
Resume working on all 4 needles, paying careful attention as to working the rest of the row in pattern where you left off to turn the heel. You can make this sock as simple or as detailed as you would like.
- If you wish to keep the back of the leg stockinette, keep working the pattern as you were.
- If you wish to have the cable pattern on the back of the sock that is on the front of the sock, start working the back of the sock repeating the same row that you knit over Needles 1 and 2 before working the gusset.
Either way you choose to do the leg, you may need to pick up a stitch on either side to close up any holes there may be, remembering to K2tog or SSK with an end stitch to maintain the correct stitch count. Continue working in pattern for the first 28 (32, 36) and then either stockinette, or pattern of your choice, over the second the next 28 (32, 36) stitches.
Work leg until 1½-2 inches less than the entire desired length of the sock.
Cuff
KNIT ONE ROUND, then start ribbing.
[K1, P1]x28 (32, 36).
Repeat cuff pattern for 1½-2 inches. Bind off all stitches in pattern using a stretchy bind-off.
Make second sock the same as the first.
Lace Chart Written Instructions
Rnd 1: K0 (K2, K4), P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, Ktbl, P1, K2tbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, K28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 2: K0 (K2, K4), P3, BCx2, P3, BCx2, FCx2, P3, FCx2, P3, K28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 3: K0 (K2, K4), P3, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P2, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P3, K28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 4: K0 (K2, K4), P2, BCx2, P3, BC, BT, P2, FT, FC, P3, FCx2, P2, K28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 5: K0 (K2, K4), P2, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, Ktbl, P1, K2tbl, P2, K2tbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P2 K28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 6: K0 (K2, K4), P1, BCx2, P3, BCx2, FC, BC, FCx2, P3, FCx2, P1 K28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 7: K0 (K2, K4), (P1, Ktbl)x2, P1, P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P2, K2tbl, P2, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, (Ktbl, P1)x2, K28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 8: K0 (K2, K4), (P1, Ktbl)x2, P1, P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P2, K2tbl, P2, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, (Ktbl, P1)x2 K28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 9: K0 (K2, K4), (P1, Ktbl)x2, P1, P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P2, K2tbl, P2, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, (Ktbl, P1)x2, K 28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 10: K0 (K2, K4), P1, FCx2, P3, FCx2, BC, FC, BCx2, P3, BCx2, P1, K28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 11: K0 (K2, K4), P2, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, Ktbl, P1, K2tbl, P2, K2tbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P2 K28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 12: K0 (K2, K4), P2, FCx2, P3, FCx2, P2, BCx2, P3, BCx2, P2 K28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 13: K0 (K2, K4), P3, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P2, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P3 K28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 14: K0 (K2, K4), P3, FCx2, P3, FCx2, BCx2, P3, BCx2, P3 K28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 15: K0 (K2, K4), P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, Ktbl, P1, K2tbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4 K28 (K34, K40).
Rnd 16: K0 (K2, K4), P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, Ktbl, P1, K2tbl, P1, Ktbl, P4, Ktbl, P1, Ktbl, P4 K28 (K34, K40). 
Hi am new to online patterns and ordering and such. Started knitting in collage for something to do besides studying or watching tv. That was in 1969. Still knit 1 purl 1 oops! Like me trying new twists on old stitches and new ways of doing all knitting plus improving the hobby. Looking forward to seeing and making new patterns.